Beyond the ROMAN WALL: SHOREDITCH and HOXTON.

SHOREDITCH and HOXTON. Now, forget Shakespeare!

Pointed on the map HOXTON SQUARE

Buses from LIVERPOOL ST.STA

CONTENT

You are, now, in the LONDON BOROUGH OF HACKNEY.               

—Old borough, new borough.               
—A duel in HOXTON FIELDS                —The “UNIVERSITY” OF CIRCUS                                      —A famous letter, an historical tip-off                                         —Real East End: HOXTON STREET MARKET, Music Hall and WORKHOUSE

 

Buses from around OLD STREET Station 

Old Borough, new Borough

SHIREDITCH TOWN HALL

Again, beneath the crest, the motto: MORE LIGHT, MORE POWER. Traditionally, a progressive VESTRY, later a METROPOLITAN BOROUGH, as shown by the statue of PROGRESS.

Built in 1866, following plans of arch.CAESAR AUGUSTUS LONG (on the site of FULLER’S HOSPITAL) as a VESTRY HALL for the parish of SHOREDITCH. It became thus the centre of civic life.

In 1888 the inquest for the killing of MARY KELLY took place here.

On 1902 WILLIAM HUNT designed the expansion of the original building, for the new METROPOLITAN BOROUGH OF SHOREDITCH: ASSEMBLY HALL, offices, tower, the caretaker’s cottage. Due to the 1904 fire a new Assembly Hall was built in 07. In the 1930s performances of SHK’s plays were performed here to raise funds for housing. 
In 1938 the COMMITTEE ROOMS, red brick annexe, was built.

During WW2 help (evacuations, support, air raid warnings…) was organised here, the “base” associated with  the submarine HMS TRASHER

In 1965 merger of the former Metr.Bor. of HACKNEY, STOKE NEWINGTON and SHOREDITCH gave way to the new LONDON BOROUGH OF HACKNEY.

As the HQ of the new authority were transferred to HACKNEY, the ASSEMBLY HALL hosted boxing evenings, until the sport was banned here, due to the death of Trinidadian boxer ULRIC REGIS. Followed years of disrepair until the first revival in the 90s, with the WHIRL-Y-GIG trance nights.

A trust took charge in 1997, the hall was restored and converted into an art venue, with a variety of historical spaces:

ASSEMBLY HALL: High ceiling, marble walls, FRANK MATCHAM style balcony.

COUNCIL CHAMBER: the original Victorian Vestry Hall, with a  moulded ceiling, columns and stained glass. Linked with the

MAYORS PARLOUR: stained glass windows.

THE DITCH: subterranean, interconnected rooms, untouched. with a secret entrance off OLD ST. Used for installations, product launches.

OLD SERVERY: used for theatrical rehearsals, or as a kitchen space for large events.


Welcome to SHOREDITCH!. An introduction to its history

Remember the rowdy outskirts of London, which hosted the first ELIZABETHAN theatres, plus the brothels and the taverns?. Well,  the theatres disappeared  very soon (the stages moved to BANKSIDE).

The population, rather modest and working class, or directly pauper and deprived, increased. Factories, workshops, and warehouses were established and built. But factories, workshops, and warehousing went, and new type of industry —creative— settled in the area, and with a new type of dwellers, the rather young professionals of those industries. Gentrification. Hipsters. Art galleries, design shops, trendy coffee shops and restaurants. Some old pubs have reborn. Music venues. Hotels. A bit rowdy, Fridays and Saturdays in the evening… 

 

The legend goes that a mistress of KING EDWARD IV,  JANE SHORE, died or was buried in a ditch… the ditch became SHORE’S DITCH. There is a painting of JS, being retrieved from the ditch, that used to be in the former HAGGERSTON LIBRARY. In a HIGH ST. shop a design on glazed tiles shows mistress and king…

 

If we understand that the the ditch in reality functioned as a sewer, as the watercourse that rises around CURTAIN ROAD and that flows into London as the WALBROOK, that explains the old form “SOERSDITCH”.

 

There was a Lord of the Manor called SIR JOHN DE SOERDICH.

 

 

 

This  area of GREATER LONDON used to be part of the COUNTY OF MIDDLESEX, then part of the COUNTY OF LONDON.  Definitely the outskirts of the old walled City are now INNER CITY. But fields and springs abounded.

Remember, you are by ERMINE STREET, or OLD NORTH ROAD, a route that originally, in Roman times,  took travellers, soldiers and trade from LONDINIUM, through the BISHOP’S GATE, to LINDUM COLONIA and ERBORACUM, where Roman legions were based. A trunk road of around 320 km., still now, a core trunk, part of the A10.

And OLD STREET, as well, a Roman paved road, linkIng COLCHESTER (first Roman main capital of BRITANNIA) with SILCHESTER, skirting Londinium.

The hamlets of SHOREDITCH and HOXTON were beside the road. The medieval royal hunting grounds became KINGSLAND. 

At the historical crossroads (HIGH ST., KINGSLAND ROAD, OLD ST., HACKNEY ROAD) the parish church, ST.LEONARD’s, is still here. The old monasteries  (the SPITAL and the NUNNERY) have disappeared, as you have already seen.

The area remained rural until the 18 c. Market gardens and dairy farming were the main activities. Almshouses for the elderly (GEFFRYE’s) and schools for boys were set up in the midst of a healthy environment. The area became a bit fashionable as a retreat for the wealthy families of London merchants and professionals fleeing the increasing crowded and unhealthy London.

However, mind you, the areas closer to London, with the advent of popular entertainment, thanks to its  position outside the City jurisdiction, “base tenements and houses of unlawful and disorderly resort” inhabited by “dissolute, loose, insolent people”, “beggars and people without trade”, and inns with their stables, taverns, ale houses, ordinaries, dicing houses, bowling alleys, brothels…

 

The silk weavers started coming, as refugees, from France, the furniture industry began to be established,  becoming the main local activity  (visit the MUSEUM OF THE HOME), many industries of all type, in Victorian times,  and with  them, deprivation and crime. Narrow streets of terraced working class housing sprang up, all the land was built over, becoming one of the most densely populated districts of what we can already call London. A slum.

Slum a railways go together. The railway companies were very insensitive when it comes to design their viaducts and bridges. The area became blighted 

This was a period, though, in which popular entertainment was not missing:  the NATIONAL STANDARD THEATRE had HENRY IRVING. It became the NEW OLIMPIA PICTUREDROME in 1926. The SHIREDITCH EMPIRE, which became the LONDON MUSIC HALL  was designed by MATCHAM, and CHAPLIN performed here. The ROYAL CAMBRIDGE MUSIC HALL, when rebuilt in 1897, had a huge stage. 

 

After the devastation of WW2, intensive and extensive redevelopment took place. Council estates occupied the sites of slummy terraces and some industrial plots. Grey concrete all over. Some office buildings, grey as well.

But something started to happen in the 80s: the  East End districts became popular with creative industries, professionals of that type began to consider living here, as well:  gentrification was here SHOREDITCHIFICATION, hipsterfication… Very Shoreditch!.  Simple rebuilding gave wa6 to regeneration, amn the improvement of the design of buildings, be it residential, work or leisure. Hotels make their appearance. Off go the striptease clubs. In the trendy bars.

Back on the route. To HOXTON SQUARE

After enjoying a drink or two in the multiple coffee shops, bars, PHs, and all type of eateries of the district…

Before entering HOXTON SQ. proper see the plaque

 


TERENCE HIGGINS TRUST founded here 

 

Site of SHOWROOMS

 

HOXTON SQUARE was, in times of the DB,  part of marshy fields, one time the landlord must have been an Anglo-Saxon man called HOCQ or HOCH.  The termination “ton” denotes, as usual, a farm a fortified enclosure. In medieval times, HOGESDON and HOCHESTON were forms used commonly).

 

In 1415, by order of the LM London the City of London wall was broken and a gate was built, “for the easy of its citizens “, who now could walk to ISLINGTON and HOXTON after going through MOORGATE .

In TUDOR and STUART times the first PLEASURE GARDENS make their appearance in the areas around London, i.e. ISLINGTON and HOXTON. Here Mr PIMLICO set up business, and became so  famous and important that he gave his name to a London 19th c. district. Do not be confused, you are in London’s East End. Mind you, the famous  toy theatre-maker Mr POLLOCK started his career in Hoxton, as well!.

 

The playhouses were not far away but around here  courtiers and aristocrats built their manors.

 

In 1598 it the area was called HOGSDEN FIELDS. Enough distanced from London to grant anonymity and space for duellists to exercise: playwright BEN JONSON, whose play EVERY MAN IN HIS HUMOURS was performed in the CURTAIN (with SHK in it)  a few days before, came out victorious over actor GABRIEL SPENCER. The latter one had a longer sword though, and was the one who had started the controversy according to BJ’s account, related many years later.

He was subsequently arrested and sentenced for murder but, as he claimed the BENEFIT OF CLERGY, he avoided execution. He was BRANDED on his left thumb and had to forfeit all his possessions (no wonder hi fell in financially dire straits, and when he had to paid for his burial he had to do with a standing up TOMB!).

The RIGHT OF CLERGY originated in the COMPROMISE OF AVRANCHES, by which KING HENRY II reconciled the Crown with the Church, after the controversy that ended in ARCHBISHOP’S BECKET murder: secular courts, with few exceptions, like high treason, had to jurisdiction over the clergy.

Was BJ a member of the clergy?. Well, “clerginess” was a ample condition, according to the compromise: tonsured hair, or wearing an ecclesiastical dress, or being able to read from the Latin Bible, or…well, from 1351,  just been able to read.

 

BEN JONSON and GABRIEL SPENCER

BEN JONSON had been educated at WESTMINSTER SCHOOL (nowadays, one of the famous PUBLIC SCHOOLS of England) under distinguished antiquarian WILLIAM CAMDEN. After becoming  a bricklayer(a brief stint as he was working for his uncle, but probably you can admire his art if you visit LINCOLN’S INN, one the famous institutions -INNS OF COURT- that train and associate the BARRISTERS of England and Wales), and volunteering to combat the Spanish in FLANDERS, he became a strolling player (just as SHK did ?. Maybe).

Then, a writer.  Because his satirical play THE ISLE OF DOGS was considered seditious and slandering, he was imprisoned. All this gives you an idea of how the theatrical world was 4 centuries ago.

Anyway, he was a man living on the edge, a drunkard, who lived on bread and beans, unclean and ill-favoured . But he ended in WESTMINSTER ABBEY (paid by himself, standing burial, though)

And it seems that he had a good relationship with WILLIAM SHAKESPEARE, whom he admired, had affection and night regard. It seems that all this was mutual.

What to say about GABRIEL SPENCER?.  Well, he is well known for his episodes of violence. And is well documented that he was associated with FRANCIS LANGLEY (he gave work in his playhouse to the EARL OF PEMBROKE’S MEN, a troupe that GS integrated, although he worked as well for LORD CHAMBERLAIN’S.

According to the FIRST FOLIO  erosion of HENRY VI, when the messenger is supposed to appear on stage, he is announced as “enter Gabriel”.

Some think that he was responsible for the BAD-QUARTO of the 1597 ROMEO & JULIET, which must have been a memorial reconstruction.

He, as well, was imprisoned, with BJ, ROBERT SHAW and THOMAS NASHE, for performing in THE ISLE OF DOGS. He was released after 8 weeks.

In 1597 he left PEMBROKE’S MEN to join the ADMIRAL’S troupe, as a shareholder. The manager was PHILIP HENSLOW.

HOXTON

 

When the district acquired the industrial appearance that has survived up to our days, it became densely populated. Cheap labour was close to workshops. Tailors, saddlers, iron workers, piano makers, furniture makers…. Close to the City and the West End, the fashionable markets.

By 1901, there were 5.000 cabinet, furniture and piano makers in Hackney The course, nearby, of the REGENT’S CANAL, completed at the beginning of the 19th c., facilitated the industrial transformation, as a mean of easing the transportation of heavy goods.  

The building of the railways, with their stations and goods yards nearby, accelerated the process.

MRS.MICAWBER and OLIVER TWIST knew the area…


A pop. of 34.000 in 1801 (first English CENSUS), became 68.000 in 1831, and peaked to 129.000 in 1861. In 1961 were only 40.000.

Deindustrialisation started early, which made possible that the YOUNG BRITISH ARTISTS, still not famous, started to take over disused workshops and warehouses. Fashion, design, music, and other creative industries followed. Maybe with forms of cultural life which were not reputed mainstream in the 70s.

After the 1990s property crash, when property was rented semi-legally, started to spring up some comercial galleries, the first, FACTUAL NONSENSE, in 1992, in CHARLOTTE RD., by JOSHUA COMPSTON) which helped the emergence of such YOUNG BRITISH ARTISTS  as HIRST or EMIN.

 

In the 2000s had emerged the EAST LONDON TECH CITY that we known. Only third, after the SFR and NYK  clusters, London has become thanks to this area a large hub of technology startups. Withs its own SILICON… ROUNDABOUT. Actually, this is history. The OLD STREET ROUNDABOUT is no more, replaced by a two way system with better access for pedestrian and cyclists!. 
Now media, advertising agencies… complete the panorama. Many of them, outside the main stream. All of them trendy. Hipsters, hackers and computer geeks have replaced the artists. The YBA had to move out of the area. They año no more Young, but richer.

 

HOXTON SQUARE

One of the early garden squares laid out (1683)  anywhere in the London suburbs, inspired in BLOOMSBURY SQUARE,  and contemporary to SOHO SQ. West End, East End… they were not so different before the Industrial Revolution!. 

Thus, a gentile, residential place, middle class, even. fashionable in the 17th c, but short lived.
In the the 18th c., the area was centre of NON-CONFORMISM, and l
ater in the century became the centre of the furniture trade with most houses used as workshops.

 

 

PETER DURAND, lived in the square. He filed the first patent for the technique of tinning, that is, the preservation of food using cans.

 

The central garden, for exclusive use of the residents became an open public space in 1916.

 

 

East

Nos. 31 & 37 have original traces.

Nos. 41 & 42  are original

 

North

AGUSTINIAN CONVENT and mission Church of ST.MONICA

The first Augustinian establishment since the reign of MARY I. Two Irish monks arrived in 1864,  invited by CARDINAL WISEMAN, when the area was only served by the KINGSLAND MISSION.

The district was, back then, populated by a sizeable Irish community, part of which worked in overcrowded workshops.

Businessman C H WALKER had advanced £600 to buy No.18, as a temporary priory and makeshift chapel. 
That year the VICAR GENERAL placed the foundation stone. The church was not still completed when the following year a concert was held, and MONSIGNOR MANNING preached a sermon, during its opening. 
No.17 was purchased as temporary priory, then no.18 was demolished  and the church extended Eastwards.

In ST.MONICA’s DAY 1866 took place the opening of the complete church.  The LADY CHSPEL, though was blessed by CARDINAL MANNING in 1880 No.19 was bough and demolished and the priory occupied the site, opening in 1870.

No.17 was demolished to build the school, which op.1870. Altogether, the 3 buildings, cost £13.400. Economically build but distinctly designed by the great AW PUGIN.

No.16 was purchased to expand the school, in 1879. It would be demolished in 1907, and rebuild. This school was finally sold by the Agustinians in 1970, as it had been replaced by a post war building on the corner.

The former school was converted to a fitness studio, and then restaurant and flats.

In 2004 the former boxing club and hall to the East were sold out.

In 2007 the church was repaired and cleaned.

 

—Unusual timber arcade.

—Inside a number of high quality, historic furnishings: HIGH ALTAR and REREDOS, by MAYER of MUNICH (1875).

The polychromatic sanctuary.

+www.taking-stock.org.uk

 

Site of the formerly famous and trendy HOXTON APPRENTICE RESTAURANT, an initiative of JAMIE OLIVER to give training and job opportunities to young unemployed 

 

West

—the site of ST.PETER’s Church,  now a contemporary apartment building

—No.10 used to be the VICARAGE (1874).

—No.1 DR.JAMES PARKINSON lived and had his practice  here. I leave you with SPITALFIELDS LIFE, to whom I  would like to thank for the amount of information it offers  us  about East London.

 

South

Site of CUBE GALLERY

The HOXTON SQUARE ACADEMY


It stood to the S of this square. It had succeeded the HOXTON ST ACADEMY where SAMUEL PIKE, a SANDEMANIAN, offered theological  teachings. But the wide curriculum and the fact of allowing free enquiry was its main trait.

Founded c.1785 SAMUEL MORTON SAVAGE  the future HSqA. was in WELLCLOSE SQUARE (see VISIT LONDON’S EAST END)


The tutor was DAVID JENNINGS. 
The assistant, appointed by the COWARD TRUST (who paid the lease and the salaries of tutors, a the board and lodgings of students) was ABRAHAM REES, who would become resident tutor.

 

After a long time of search and making it ready, the ACADEMY moved here, former dwellings of DANIEL WILLIAMS.

 

Students from all over the country and belonging to different DISSIDENT traditions. From WARRINGTON, TAUNTON,EXETER, CARMARTHEN…ACADEMIES. Many, funded by the COWARD TRUST, of Congregational leanings. Many, after acquiring heterodox views , became  Unitarians.

Of course, they would have been members of the Ch.of E..

There were, at one time 12 students. The duration of the ministerial course was of 5 years.

57 students were awarded exhibition, amongst them WILLIAM GODWIN.

Successful candidates had  to pass an examination into learning, religion and conduct,

The Trustees made monthly visits

Pneumatology, Ethics, Divinity, Mathematics, Philology, Oratory were the subjects.

Library, experimental equipment and an orrery were housed in the building, as well.

 

 

DISSENTING ACADEMIES


With the RESTORATION, once the extreme Protestant regime of the COMMONWEALTH or the PROTECTORATE  (Lord Protector, OLIVER CROMWELL) 
many many PURITAN ministers and teachers were deprived of their livings and had to finf work elsewhere. DA started to spring up, especially to the North of London, definitely outside the CITY, WESTMINSTER and the incipient WEST END, bulwarks of the ANGLICAN CHURCH.

Exiting HOXTON SQ. Westwards 

 

Site of HOXTON MARKET

Set up in 1687 but short lived, as the middle class district around.

Do not worry, later on you are going to enjoy a 21rst c. street market, with all the trimmings!.

 

Site of the CHRISTIAN MISSION 

F.1881, by the BURTT brothers moved here 1886. Enlarged 1905. Refronted 1915.

The BURTT brothers were found, as boys, themselves living in the streets and were brought up by a charity and educated at a RAGGED SCHOOL. Here dinners and boots were offered, as were excursions to EPPING FOREST, a Sunday School (still in operation in the 60s), Christmas parties… 

CHARLES BOOTH mentions it as soup kitchen and refuge for poor.

The welfare state finally came to give final support to those acts of philanthropy, and when social conscience was much more rooted.

From power station to university

 
Now you turn your attention to the red brick building sporting a motto in Latin. Let us exercise the Latin of your school days!.

This building dates from 1897. It housed in the destructor hall, 3 engines and storage binsA 80 ft chimney stack. And, next door Library (and small. Museum), Public Baths and Washhouses. And municipal offices. 
The first UK system of  local waste and refuse disposal, used to generate power, which was later used for street lighting and for the neighbouring public buildings. An example of state  (in fact, local authority, as this was built by the SHOREDITCH VESTRY) intervention, allowed by the 1882 ELECTRICAL LIGHT ACT, which allowed to purchase private undertakings after 21 years of operation ( extended to 42 years in 1888, as the private companies were no able to recoup their investments, in only 21) to create monopolies on the public interest.

Recycling, what a (not so new) marvel!.

LIGHT AND POWER FROM DUST!. That is, electricity was recognised as the fuel of the future. And here, an interventionist administration took the matter in its own hands. Not everywhere in London was like this.

Anyway, this was one of the largest power consuming districts (factories and workshops, warehouses, 300 PHs, shops open all night…) and the, rather leftist VESTRY resented that private profit was made at the expense of local needs.

And there was and additional problem to solve: it had to deal with 20.000 tons of municipal refuse each year!. An innovative solution beckoned.  As the BOARD OF TRADE has granted to SOREDITCH the license to supply energy, the Vestry commissioned Eng. EDWARD MANVILLE to conduct a feasibility study of a combined DUST DESTRUCTOR PLUS ELECTRICITY GENERATING STATION. He concluded that the undertaking had scope for development, and the voters endorsed the proposal.

 

 

In the open ceremony, a part from municipal pride, was present the physicist LORD KELVIN, who praised the  Vestry for being technologically progressive, and Mr.STUART, LABOUR MP praised it for serving the humble population.

NILE STREET tenements were the first ro have electricity supply, in 1899. By then, who opened the new  flats was the EARL OF ROSEBERRY, Chairman of the new,y formed LCC.  The Vestry as no more but, very appropriately , the new BOROUGH, part of the new LCC, embraced it: MORE POWER, MORE LIGHT. In fact, the Borough continued to be a progressive authority, where LABOUR took hold firmly.

And demand expanded, supply expanded. A second generating station was built in WHISTON ROAD, HAGGERSTON, this one fired by coal, supplied thanks to the canal, as there was not enough rubbish to satisfy demand.

By 1924, 43 miles of the Borough were cabled, in 1926 a RENTAL WIRING SCHEME allowed households to have electricity with no upfront cost, paying 1’5 d per unit. The had installed lamps and shades, fixed by the ELECTRICAL DEPARTMENT staff, and, as well slot meters and maintenance where included.

SHOWROOMS were opened in HOXTON STREET, in the corner of OLD ST.

 

The NATIONAL GRID was created in 1927. We were entering the ers of large scale generation. The era was heralded by the building of BATTERSEA POWER STATION, in 1933. 
But, during WW2, small generation here provided a back up, when large stations were affected by the bombs. And  gain in 1947, due to the coal crises.

 

 

 

 

NATIONAL CENTRE FOR CIRCUS TRAINING

You could be getting a university degree here, now. This is a leading centre that supports the professional development of CIRCUS performers and companies, and runs adults and children classes.

JONATHAN GRAHAM started it, in NORTH ROAD (1989). Helping performers and companyies, decisions spaces for practicing and performing, putting on shows… in 1994 the institution moved here, and the following year was authorised to deliver a NATIONAL DIPLOMA. 

In 1998 a tailor made training program was devised for aerial artists performing and the MIL at the MILLENNIUM DOME,  now THE O2, NORTH GREENWICH.

In 1999 was created a 2 year BA course, in association with the CENTRAL SCHOOL OF SPEECH & DRAMA, WEST HAMPSTEAD, and validated by the UNIVERSITY OF KENT. In 2014 a new BA, CIRCOMEDIA, by the UNIVERSITY OF BATH SPA was created.

The GENERATING COMPANY was f. here.

Deaf and disabled artists, including soldiers,  had a training program set up, so they would perform in the 2012 PPGG OPENING CEREMONY.

Star members of the CIRQUE DU SOLEIL and the RSHKCo have been trained here, SADIE FROST, STEPHEN DALDRY, DANIEL KRAMER, LUCY MECKLENBURG

At the corner with. PITFIELD STREET

Former THE HOP POLE PH

The attic storey has been extended, with a full length mansard. Lead faced dormers, in the original dormer o serve the ornamental terracotta surround.

Dark green faience, and fascia of cream tiles.

Terracotta architraves.

 

Before you turn right into PITFIELD STREET, see, opposite, the entrance of 

CHARLES SQUARE

A fashionable 18th residential square, like HOXTON SQUARE. Now, completely redeveloped, only one 18th c. building stands on its West side

 

HOUSE

 

A little to the West of the square 

THE PRINCE ARTHUR PH.

 

Not far away, on OLD STREET, BOUNCE (ping pong)

 

 

 

ISLINGTON or THE CITY

This little detour can be the start of 2 larger diversions that would take you to the CITY or to ISLINGTON

ISLINGTON to the West 

CITY to the South

The route continues along PITFIELD ST

Former PUBLIC LIBRARY, opened in 1896

Funded, as so many in the EAST END, by PASSMORE EDWARDS (1823-1911), who, coming from a humble Cornish village, became a journalist, then editor, MP for SALISBURY, and a champion of the working classes. 

 

Site of the PUBLIC BATHS (1899)

After the damages suffered during WW2 they had to be demolished. A sympathetically designed building occupies the site.

THE COURTYARD THEATRE

CONSERVATOIRE MUSIC AND DANCE

 

 

Nos. 18-20. Site of the VARIETY THEATRE, associated with the WHITE HORSE PH.

Arch. PHIPPS,, 1869

The site was rebuilt in 1994

 

No. 41. Former, and handsome,  FURNITURE WAREHOUSE

White round keystone on round windows, glazed tiles, square brick column’s decorations

 

Site of ASKE’S 

ROBERT ASKE was a silk merchant and member of the HABERDASHER COMPANY, and, in 1689, legate land and £20.000 to be invested to provide ALMSHOUSES for the poor and a SCHOOL for 20 poor sons of FREEMEN.

ASKE’S HOSPITAL was built here, 1690-93, designed by ROBERT HOOKE, associate of SIR CHRISTOPHER WREN.

1827. The HABERDASHER’ COMPANY rebuilt the venue in a GREEK/REGENCY style, by an arch, -DR.ROPER- who had provided the valuation of the properties needed for the laying down of REGENT STREET.

The building was altered in 1873

In 1898 the institution was transferred to the LCC, who established here the newly founded SHOREDITCH TECHCICAL INSTITUTE, now COLLEGE, transferred to COOPERS HILL, in 1951.

Later on, the LONDON COLLEGE OF FURNITURE occupied the building, until transferred to the CITY & ISLINGTON COLLEGE.

Finally, converted into 38 apartments, 1 studio and 1 house.

 

BUTTESLAND ST

Built 1810-35, on the HABERDASHERS’ ESTATE, a terrace of 7 properties. With round headed doorways, with fanlight. The roof and the chimneys are concealed behind the parapet. Some sash windows are original.

67-73

62-65

60-61, Victorian

 

CHART ST.

17-23 Georgian

 

 

Who are the HABERDASHERS?


The HABERDASHERS LIVERY COMPANY was in charge of regulating the silk and velvet trade.

Now, thanks to a careful stewardship of corporate bequests and funds, the HLC supports significant educational and charitable institutions linked with the FASHION INDUSTRY.

The HABERDASHERS BOYS SCHOOL is now in ELSTREE.

 

Site of the GAUMONT CINEMA, now HOXTON CURZON 

B.1914, with a cap. of 866 spectators. Closed during the BLITZ but open during the rest of the War. It became part of the RANK chain, but closed in 56. Meatpackers, importers  and wholesalers used the building, then artists, until plans were made  by the SHIREDITCH TRUST to restore it.

In fact, it has been completely rebuilt,  up to the GF, in reinforced concrete, and with CROSS LAMINATED TIMBER  modular frame, upwards.  Cinema, restaurant and 18 apartments.

The heritage façade has a modern extension of lightweight zinc-clad pavilion shaped.

Arch. WAUGH THISLETON

 

 

THE GEORGE & VULTURE PH.

The tallest pub building in London?.

 

HABDRDASHER ST

Part of RA’s bequest.

Nos.57-145. C.1900 artisans’  flats. Roof railings


HABERDARSHERS PLACE

Rebuilt1952

 

PIMLICO HOSTELRY & PLEASURE GARDENS

Pimlico?. Sounds familiar… VICTORIA STATION is in PIMLICO!. BUCKINGHAM PALACE is in PIMLICO… But there are miles away!.

A foreign looking name?.

In the last TUDOR and the STUART times, BEN PIMLICO, originally from Italy (?) owned an ale house which became famous, and particularly sought after was his nut brown ale. The pleasure gardens in which it developed became at the centre of the area, where pleasure gardens sprang up, and PIMLICO became the popular name of this area denoting those places of entertainment. It seems that another venue, started or not by Mr.Pimlico, was called PIMLICO, and the name stuck!.

The poem A MAD WORLD OF HOGSDON contains the lines: “Doctors, Proctors, Clerks, Attorneys to Pimlico make sweetly sweethearts journeys”

 

 

ST.JOHN THE BAPTIST Church

Here, JOHN GOLDSMITH,  Maternal GGGG father of KATE MIDDLETON, or CATHERINE the PRINCESS OF WALES, married ESTHER JONES, 1850.

The only church designed by the arch.FRANCIS EDWARDS, SIR JOHN SOANE’s foremost pupil, was built  and  consecrated in 1826. HOXTON was not anymore part of the parish of ST.LEONARD.

It is one of the CHURCH COMMISSIONERS’ churches, as well called, a WATERLOO CHURCH, or a MILLION ACT CHURCH. It held a congregation of 2.000.

The original floor plan has been kept intact, the galleries are notables. The painted ceiling and other decorations are spectacular. They were designed by arch. JOSEPH ARTHUR REEVE, in the 20th c.  The organ case is Georgian, the organ itself, from 1915, was restored in 1934. The Coat of arms is that used. Y WILLIAM IV.

The churchyard was open to the public in 1882.

The first vicar was responsible for the founding of the NATIONAL SAVINGS BANK, London’s largest, and the ST.JONH’S NATIONAL SCHOOLS, following a local campaign and the advise of CHARLES BOOTH.

The school, was in  NEW NORTH ROAD, with a capacity for 800 kids. It was successively replaced by a SBL school, a b by the current Primary.

 


The route can continue Northwards or Eastwards… it is your choice!

Northwards: towards THE BEAUVOIR TOWN, and DALSTON &  STOKE NEWINGTON

 

If you move the map, you will see the course of the REGENT’S CANAL, and, pointed out, DE BEAUVOIR SQUARE


After  the site of PIMLICO PLEASURE GARDENS and ST.JOHN’s Church, alongside PITFIELD ST. and WHITMORE RD


TRUE JESUS CHURCH

SHOREDITCH PARK

BRITANNIA LEISURE CENTRE

SCHOOL

 

WHITMORE BRIDGE over the REGENTS CANAL


However, I suggest you a detour… you will have an encounter with SIR ALFRED  HITCHCOCK!. Enter the park!

 

On the map, in SOUTHGATE ROAD a branch of TESCO

 

Immediatel 3 things come to your attentional you  walk the in diagonal Nort-Westerly:

2 art works and a warehouse-looking building with a big name on it. And you recognise the name!.

As you get closer to the stone you recognise that it is a boulder. It comes from a quarry in CORNWALL and the sculptor climbers are welcomed. In fact it is boulder NO.1. NO.2 is in MABLEY GREEN, HACKNEY WICK.

The other piece of art is HITCHCOCK REEL. Mos, all becomes obvious: the building in front of you where used by the GAINSBOROUGH FILMS, as studios, and AH worked here.

I encourage you to inspect the building more closely: you will find an immense bust of AL, inside the modern courtyard. The plaque remembering you of the history is outside.

GAINSBOROUGH FILM COMPANY.  ALFRED HITCHCOCK

Why not crossing the bridge and inspecting BARING STREET and WILTON SQUARE.

And, as well, the ROSEMARY GARDENS industrial past. In case of a certain emergency THE BARING and THE ROSEMARY BRANCH PHs are here to help.

 

From here you can divert towards ISLINGTON, already very close.


Now, you will have an encounter with LENIN, STALIN, TROTSKY eg al.

I suggest you a detour… you will have an encounter with SIR ALFRED  HITCHCOCK!. Enter the park!

See the TESCO?. 100 years ago, on the corner of the main road and BALMES ROAD used to be a church. In 1907, the future BOLCHEVIQUES were holding a Congress in London, precisely here. 

Eastwards: to HOXTON STREET and the MUSEUM OF THE HOME

See the map?: PITFIELD ST.  and HOXTON ST,  where you are finding a number interesting sites run, in parallel, and are connected by FANSWAW ST.

Alongside FANSHAW ST

ACADEMY BUILDINGS

The name of these warehouses reminds us of any of  the DISSENTING Academies

 

LION AND LAMB PH

 

 

At the corner of HOXTON ST, to the N

KHADIJA’S GARDEN

A bed of planting commemorates  K SAYE, tragically killed in the 2017 GRENFELL disaster.#

She worked for PEER. and played a role creating this space. The pedestal clock contains an artwork, BLACK HANDS, by CHRIS OFILI and the sculptural installation SPONTANEOUS CITY:HOXTON, By LONDON FIELDWORKS.

To the S

No.73. Site of POLLOCK’S

A London institution:  The famous toy theatre manufacturer, was established here in 1856. He and WEBB, the most important dynasties of this industry,  were based in the area. Artists like the CRUICKSHANKS brothers, R.DIGHLON, or WILLIAM BLAKE designed engraved plaques to be published as sheets of theatrical characters.

DICKENS was az isutor here. And the boy R.LOUIS STEVENSON was buying prints in the shop in EDINBURGH supplied by POLLOCK’S. He came here, on a visit, in 1884. He was delighted.

Bombed out of here, the firm was established in the WEST END, and, now, after the finally closing the shop-museum in WHITFIELD ST., FITZROVIA, you can admire his theatres in the OLD COVENT GARDEN MARKET shop.

 

On the W side the NEW CITY COLLEGE.

 

No.91. Site of THE ACADEMY (1764-85)see

Dissenting ministers forming school.

The route takes you Nortwards but there are a couple of interesting places to the S:


No 34. Only surviving building of the HOXTON HOUSE ASYLUM

F.1695, as a private lunatic asylum a type of institution common in this rural area, which became synonymous with lunacy!.
The MILES family took over 1715, looking after private patients, paupers and army men. The family doctor would care for the physical health of the private patients.

With  the acquisition of other large houses in the street and surrounding streets was enlarged 1784 and 1814,  becoming the largest in HOXTON. From 1792 many RN seamen became insane, and especially after the BATTLE OF TRAFALGAR, 80 patients were treated. The CHATHAM CHEST FUND was set up. 
However, under ownership of JONATHAN MILES conditions deteriorated and inspectors of the NAVAL HOSPITAL and from the GUARDIANS OF THE POOR called the attention to poor conditions. Floors soaked with urine, incontinent patients mixed with the rest, chaos, confusion, low staff level, harsh treatment… 

A HOUSE OF COMMONS Select Committee looked into the affairs. In 1818 the NAVAL LUNATIC ASYLUM was transferred to GOSPORT.

A second HofC.S.C. created a LUNACY COMMISSION to monitor and regulate care and treatment, and 1828 MADHOUSES ACT followed.
In 1845 the COUNTY ASYLUMS ACT transferred them to public hospitals.

In 1875 this hospital was licensed for 325 inmates. In  1885 it occupied 2 acres. 10 years later it looked after 280 private patients and some paupers.

Finally. Closed in 1902. It became a warehouse of a wardrobe and then a tools dealer, and then of an upholsterer. 

The LCC took over the building and used it for different functions: education offices, public health depart., children care offices, Special school, invalid child care assistance, youth employment bureau, base of Inner London Education Authority, young persons advice bureau… In 1911 became HOXTON HOUSE SCHOOL, under the supervision of the LCC.  

Afterwards. HACKNEY COMMUNITY COLLEGE.

 

JAKE and DINOS CHAPMAN had studios here



Site of the HOXTON OLD JEWISH BURIAL GROUND (1707-1960). Burials took place here until 1878.

Plaque in WEST HAM JEWISH CEMETERY

“UNITED SYNAGOGUE BURIAL SOCIETY

“Repaired 1929

”records in archives at 2-3 ST.JAMES’S PL., EC3

No photos were taken before the removal of rests and the destruction of the site p, authorised the  HIEF RABBI.

Now yes, walking Northwards

 

THE MACBETH OF HOXTON PH

On the pediment “HOXTON DISTILLERY” (gin!)

 

Site of THE BRITANNIA

Tea garden, tavern, saloon, theatre, cinema

In 1840 this was still a tavern, where profits came from serving food and drink, and complimentary performances.

From 1841 plates were staged, with MUSIC HALL  acts during intervals. PANTOMIMES, as well. An food and drinks served in the auditorium. The ROYAL BRITANNIA SALOON!. The rebuilding of 1858 permitted an attendance of 4.700 spectators. Amongst them, and very frequently, CHARLES DICKENS, who used this venue in his UNCOMMERCIAL TRAVELLER, of 1861: he underlined “chandeliers, ventilation, good sound… and  “the stage machinery, its height and breadth, equal to the SCALA, the MILAN GRAND OPERA…

An associate in the enterprise here was GEORGE LUPINO  HOOK. LUPINO is a name that rings you bells… Well he had 16 children, and one of the GCh was the HOLLYWOOD star IDA LUPINO.

Between 1913 and 1940 this was the site of a GAUMONT CINEMA. Finally, after being completely destroyed, it was demolished in 1941.

LIBRARY

 

GUNPOWDER PLOT PLAQUE


Site of  WILLIAM PARKER,  4th BARON MONTEAGLE’s residence

HOXTON, 17th c.: still a rural retreat were noble families had residences 

Son of a recusant family, himself a sympathiser of the RC cause (imprisoned after the ESSEX REBELLION, and had a hand at organising THOMAS WINTOUR’s mission tonSpain) during ELISABETH’s reign, his wife came from the prominent TRESHAM, a NORTHAMPTON recusant  family, and his sister was married to THOMAS BABINGTON (BABINGTON PLOT!).

Notwithanding all this record , he was part of the tribunal who tried and condemned MARY QUEEN OF SCOTS, a role which won for him the favour of the royal court. 

With the accession of JAMES I of England, be declared “to be done with all formal plots “, and in a letter to the King,  even committed to follow the STATE RELIGION. In fact, King James accession had raised Catholic hopes of the end of persecution. Expulsions, fines and harassment continued though, even if the atmosphere had turned more tolerant, in appearance.

In this climate ROBERT CATESBY recruited a group of men in order to blow up PARLIAMENT while in session, during traditional SOVEREIGN’S OPENING. That year of 1605 fell on the 5th of November, after been put off by the PLAGUE.

JOHN JOHNSON leased  leased a house in LONDON, gathered enough gunpowder, and then he moved it to WESTMINSTER, storing in in a cellar under the HOUSE OF LORDS

An anonymous letter was delivered  here a read aloud by a servant,  on the 26th October, while sitting at dinner, warning LORD MONTEAGLE mot to attend Parliament, on the 5th the following month. Was that letter sent by FRANCIS TRESHAM, his brother-in-law?. Or by a friendly conspirator?. Or by himself?. Those are the theories!. The letter is in  NATIONAL ARCHIVES.

MONTEAGLE rushed to WHITEHALL, where he was received by ROBERT CECIL, EARL OF SALISBURY, and by the king in person.. He would be present at the search of the proximities of Parliament, on the 4th. GUY FAWKES was found there while they gunpowder was hidden under coal. Under torture, in the TOWER OF LONDON, he confessed the names of the other 7 conspirators, and was executed in January 1606.

By the way, several other RC Lords would be absent from London those days…

The GUNPOWDER PLOT was . Disaster was averted.

 

LORD MONTEAGLE would be rewarded with £500 and £200 worth of lands. He became an investor in the VIRGINA COMPANY  and other endeavours.

However, he assisted his brother-in-law, who had harboured Catholic Priests, he continued to connive with Catholics, his son LORD MORLEY was one of the prominent ones (he sheltered seminarists), and his daughter was a nun. 
Before he died, he received the Catholic last rites.

Nos.153-155  Site of THE WHITE HORSE PH

 

Nos.167-171  Terraced houses

 

No.173  An 18th c. house with, perhaps, an earlier core, with a double-span mansard roof and dormers. Stone-coped parapet. Gauged red brick arches to windows.

 

No.175.  Brick, rendered façade. Concealed roof. Rectangular fanlight.

 


NO.41. Site of the HOXTON ACADEMY

It op. here in 1796, and developed such a large local congregation, that had to be rebuilt in 1806 to house up 1500 pupils. In 1814 a purpose purpose SUNDAY SCHOOL was added for UP to 700 children. The poorest of them received help to purchase clothes. The best behaved had special lessons in writing and arithmetic. The Sunday  School survived until 1941


Nos. 124 & 126. ARTISANS HOUSES, c.1730.

Quite substantial, with high basements and 3 storeys. See the cambered arches to the windows, the moulded stone cornice.

No.126 has metal sheeting, 19th c. doorways, Doric decoration and a shop over the garden. 
A panelled joinery staircase and column newells with ball finials  have been retained.

No.124 has retained a timber door case with fluted  pilasters and carved brackets.

Now, after being refurbished early this century,after being purchased by HOXTON HALL, they house creative businesses and artists units: HOXTON WORKS.

 

 

No.129. QUEEN MARY HOSTEL (1929, reformed in 2005)

A hostel built  for working local girls, now houses creative industries

 

HOXTON HALL

A Victorian  MUSIC HALL…reborn!.

First, in 1863, here, in the MORTIMER HALL, dog circus was performed. In 1866, it became the MAC DONALD’S MUSIC HALL. 
MARIE LLOYD, the local performer, famous in the whole of the the UK performed here.

IN 1879 by WILLIAM ISAAC PALMER, a philanthropist, from the biscuit maker family (HUNTLEY & PALMERS) set a TEMPERANCE HALL, on behalf of the BLUE RIBBON GOSPEL TEMPERANCE SOCIETY, on the site of the local MUSIC HALL, which had lost its performance license.

And thanks to the original saloon style space, which continued to be used by the religiously minded, the place could be salvaged and, as a community & arts centre and performance space, it has been given a new life, helping to give more hope to the area, on the process of gentrification. People are coming to HOXTON again, in search of entertainment.

The man who ran the show and who we have to thank for saving the HH was TERRY GOODFELLOW. 

It is an iron railed, 2 tier galleried (2 balconies auditorium in 3 sides, supported by cast iron columns, above a small, night, multi-tiered stage

 

The MUSIC HALL was an evolution of the 18 th c. SALOON where, for an admission fee or higher prices of drinks, customers had singing, dancing, drama and comedy, all in one, all included.

 

These days video installations and portraits by LEO ASEMOTA (2005) enliven the place and ROBERT NEWMAN’ performs stand up comedy cum geopolitical lecture, being filmedc by a television channel.

But theatre events and music performances are on the programme, including MUSIC HALL

 

 


You are still walking alongside HOXTON STREET. Almost opposite the HALL, BACCHUS WALK, reminds us that a lot of wine was ingested here around 4 centuries ago, when SIGNORE PIMLICO had set up his ale house and his PLEASURE GARDENS (hang on!: alehouses we’re not supposed to sell wine!). Curiously enough, a a 100 years ago, in times of temperance, nor wine, nor ale!.

The MARKET!


The HOXTON one is oldest in the whole borough, as it dates from the Middle Ages. This street has  not always  been at the centre of the hamlet. The first market was set up in the SOXTON SQUARE, then it moved to PITFIELD STREET, at the beginning of the 19th c. Finally, in 1840 it was established here. 
However the area was extremely poor, as witnessed by CHARLES BOOTH, in his SURVEY OF EAST LONDON of 1889, and deprivation continued until the 1920s, with charities and social services avoiding the area.

In Victorian and in pre-war times this was a huge market, sprawling for half a mile.  Then it became a shadow of itself: when the area emerged from WW2 devastated, he district lost the industries, the slums were cleared,  and the population decreased.

Now, the big day is Saturday. There are spaces for around 200 stalls out in the roadway but during weekdays only a couple of dozens occupy their pitch.

No.148 HAYES & ENGLISH FUNERAL DIRECTORS

Two families joining forces 

 

F.COOKE, PIE & MASH SHOP

Here you are going to find the signature dish of the EAST END!. And there are not many places in EAST LONDON, where you will be able to savour it…
ROBERT COOKE founded the business in SCLATER ST, in 1862.

 

HOXTON TRUST COMMUNITY GARDEN

The cupola, from the old HOMERTON WORKHOUSE.

The site was occupied by housing until the bombs destroyed it., but in the 18th HOLLY HOUSE, a lunatic asylum, was here.

Toilets designed for an oil rig

 

 

Nos 237 & 237A. Artisans’ houses, first third of the 18th c. 2 storeys and attic.High pitched pantied roof, with modern doormers.

 

Site of the WORKHOUSE OFFICES. Oficially, ST.LEONARD’S SHOREDITCH RELIEF OF THE POOR (1863]

The first workhouse of the parish, in the 17th. (OLD POOR LAWS, 1601)  was housed in individual dwellings, repaired to receive the inmates, the poor of the parish. They were, as well, employed there: spinning mob yarn. (a pack of wool was sold for £5,  spin Jersey was sold 3d/pound).

In 1774,  Shoreditch  obtained a Local Act for better relief: a new workhouse was built in 1777 (LAND OF PROMISE, reads on the main front, on KINGSLAND RD.) and a new body to run it, the TRUSTEES OF THE POOR.

In those years the institution had an apothecary, a midwife, and a parish surgeon. This last position was occupied by DR.JAMES PARKINSON, who created a fever block (cholera was rampant) while describing the SHAKING PALSY condition.

In 1834, the NEW POOR LAWS delivered better, more modern conditions: kitchen, bake house, infirmary, fever hospital (this one in HOXTON ST.). The place, though, was overcrowded and the conditions were bad. A comic interlude,  performed in the ROYAL STANDARD THEATRE, poked fun at the those conditions: Revolt or The Workhouse or A Night’s Hullaballoo.

In 1858, the Trustees gave way to a BOARD OF GUARDIANS, and a new building was erected on KINGLSLAND ROAD, which opened in 1866.

All this time, though, the articles in THE LANCET criticised the system, provoking an outcry.As a result through the METROPOLITAN POOR ACT the METROPOLITAN ASYLUM BOARD was set up.

A new infirmary was build in 1872. An assistant matron here was EDITH CAVELL. Matrons, or chief nurses, had appeared for the first time.

The LCC closed the workhouse in1930, which gave way to the ST.LEONARD’S HOSPITAL.

This was one of the first hospitals who received air raid casualties.

Now, ST.LEONARD’S HEALTH CENTRE, gives primary care.

Offices of the CITY&HACKNEY PRIMARY CARE TRUST, and the MARY SEACOLE NURSING HOME are housed here.

The venue have been redeveloped and given modern facilities.

 

 

Dr. JAMES PARKINSON. Born in SHOREDITCH in 1755

 

His father, JOHN, was an apothecary-surgeon, practicing in HOXTON SQ.

James obtained the approval to be a surgeon, by the CORPORATION OF LONDON, in 1784, and that same year succeeded his father in his practice.

He was a political man. A critic of the PITT GOVERNMENT, he was involved in social and revolutionary causes. Some historians argue that he was a firm supporter of the FRENCH REVOLUTION. He wrote numerous pamphlets advocating for for radical social reform and universal suffrage.

He was a member of the LONDON CORRESPONDENCE SOCIETY and the SOCIETY FOR CONSTITUTIONAL INFORMATION.
And he even was examined under oath, by the PRIVY COUNCIL, to give evidence about a trumped-out plot to assassinate KING GEORGE II. 

He refused to testify regarding his part in POPGUN PLOT  (so called due to the plan use of a poisoned dart from an air pressure gun) until he was certain that he woud not be forced to incriminate himself. Instead, some of his friends languished in prison.

 

As as a medical doctor, he wrote about gout, ruptured appendix, welfare subjects, legal protection of the mentally ill… And, in 1812, he wrote, with his son, the first instance of a description of a case of appendicitis in England, where  perforation was shown to be the cause of death.

In 1817, he published AN ESSAY ON THE SHAKING PALSY, where he reported on 3 patients and 3 others who he saw in the streets. PARALYSIS AGITANS is how he referred to the disease. He distinguished between resting tremors and tremors in motion.

The term PARKINSON DESEASE was coined some 60 years later by the father of NEUROLOGY, JEAN MARTIN CHARCOT.

 

He dedicated time, as well, to nature: geology and palaeontology were his interests, collecting and drawing fossils (his daughter EMMA would colour them). He used to go out on excursion with his children or friends to observa fossilised plans of animals. Not much literature had been written in England about the subject. He even wrote an introduction to the study  of fossils. He published  ORGANIC REMAINS OFVA FORMER EORLD 3 volumes (1804-1811), And, in fact,m several fossils were named after him. 
In 1822 he published OUTLINES OF ORYCTOLOGY.

 

In a meeting at the FREEMASONS TAVERN, in which he participated, together with DAVY, AIKIN and BELLAS, the GEOLOGICAL SOCIETY OF LONDON was f.

 

CATATROPHISM was his school of thought: creation and extinction take place after large scale cataclysms, where God is the guiding hand. He understood that the biblical one day period of the creation meant 1.000 years.

 

He was buried in ST.LEONARD’s but his grave is now unknown.

 

 

NOW, you have a choice: either you continuo on alongside  HOXTON ST. until it joins PITFIELD ST., heading for DE BEAUVOIR TOWN or you reach KINKSLAND ROAD, to join the the route alongside the A10 that you will find described later on…

Alongside HOXTON STREET


No. 295. Site of THE KING’S HEAD PH

Closed in 1993, now, a NIGERIAN restaurant, ASOROCK PALACE 

 

ST.ANNE’s Church

You ha just found a hidden Victorian gem!.


Alongside NUTTAL ST., to KINGSLAND RD.

The CHRIST APOSTOLIC CHURCH

The ALADURA  -PRAYING PEOPLE in YORUBA- congregation meets here. It is a PENTECOSTAL church, founded by JOSEPH AYO BABALOLA (who had been jailed for alleged witch-hunt towards   Medical establishments). Originally ST.COLUMBA’s, Anglican parish, it looks like several buildings crammed together. Designed by arch. JAMES BROOKS. The MORTUARY CHAPEL was added 1904-05. 
Due to falling attendances, it became surplus to requirements, and the parish was amalgamated with ST.ANNE’s.

 

ST.LEONARD’S  HOSPITAL

See the plaque in memory of EDITH CAVELL.


From GEFFRYE ALMSHOUSES to MUSEUM OF THE HOME

The origin of the almshouses, founded by the WORSHIPFUL COMPANY OF IRONMONGERS,  lies in a bequest made by SIR ROBERT GEFFRYE, who had been Master of the company and LORD MAYOR, who died in 1703.

The almshouses opened in 1715, providing homes for up to 56 pensioners or widows, 4 to each of the 14 cottages. Each, with sash windows and semi-circular fanlights. Typical 18th c. domestical architecture 
The central feature is the CHAPEL. 
Over the door a statue of Sir Robert, and at both sides of  it a large rounded window. A simple, wooden bell-tower surmounts the pediment.

The statue remaining in place might cause controversy as the merchant who made possible the almshouses made a lot of money from the TRANSATLANTIC SLAVE TRADE. The museum explains which is its position concerning this subject.

The LCC purchased the buildings from the IRONMONGERS COMPANY in 1911, and they were subsequently converted to a MUSEUM OF FURNITURE AND WOODWORK, thus complementing the industry which had developed in this district of East London. From its opening, this museum has developed into a museum of ENGLISH DOMESTIC INTERIORS, showing the history and evolution of the dominant interior and living style from the 17th to our times. Now, though, the museum is run by an independent charity trust.

One of the almshouses, though, has been restored to its original appearance, offering a rare glimpse into the daily lives of the pensioners.

The iron railings and the gates along KINGSLAND ROAD, removed during WW2, were restored to their original appearance in 1973 by the GLC.

 


The mysterious case of the London (and the rest of British towns and cities) iron railings

“When wrought iron railings and gates were cut down back in the 1940’s the reason provided was that they would be smelted down into guns and munitions to help the war effort. What actually happened next is a mystery and since then there have been many rumours and much speculation, including theories that huge quantities of iron were just dumped in the Thames or out at sea.

So what really did happen?

One theory states that the iron collected was unsuitable and could not be used. However, Alpha Rail believes this was very unlikely, because at the time recycled iron was a key component in the steel industry.

A far more likely explanation is that more iron was collected than was needed or could be processed, hence indeed it was disposed of as quietly as possible! It is public record that by September 1944 over one million tons of iron had been collected by cutting down railings and commandeering anything made of iron. These records also show that that the huge underground munitions factory called Beaverbrook that was set up in Corsham in Wiltshire ran far below capacity for its short life.

The legacy of this action is that many towns and cities across the UK are littered low height walls that have stumps of removed metal railings jutting out from them!

Thankfully for us, recent years have seen a determined effort by many communities, led by residents who are keen to restore these areas to their former glory, to replace the gates and metal railings that were lost over 60 years ago”.

This text has been literally copied from the ALPHA-RAIL company website, where they, wuth absolute honestly, add: “Alpha Rail is proud to manufacture a wide range of metal railings and gates in a variety of designs and finishes colour. We can also offer a choice of decorative finial to complete the perfect look and feel. For  details please browse the website, complete the enquiry form or call us on 01623 750214”. 
LONDON PARKS & GARDENS and THE GREAT WEN offer the same information.

 

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