SHOREDITCH and HOXTON. Shakespeare!

Pointed on the map HOXTON SQUARE

Buses from LIVERPOOL ST.STA

CONTENT

Towards *SHOREDITCH 

Through the BISHOP’S GATE: Exiting the CITY  OF LONDON            

BISHOPSGATE                 LIVERPOOL STREET Station                           BROADGATE. Contemporary Art & Architecture.  

You enter LONDON BOROUGH OF HACKNEY

Elizabethan theatres, rediscovered                                  —MARLOWE, SHAKESPEARE and other spies  (what?)                                         —Plenty of mystery about virtually everything.                                           —The first Actors’ Church

 

 

Next chapter: towards *HOXTON 

—Old borough, new borough                 
—A duel in HOXTON FIELD                —The “UNIVERSITY” OF CIRCUS      —A famous letter, an historic tip-off.                                                  —Real East End: STREET MARKET, MUSIC HALL and WORKHOUSE

 


BISHOPSGATE: The Old North Road. The MITRE

You are leaving the City behind.

The site of the BISHOP’S GATE is marked by a GOLDEN MITRE on the wall . The course and some remains of the ROMAN and MEDIEVAL WALL are not far away. 

Alongside BISHOPSGATE (street),

SALESFORCE TOWER

SUSHISAMBA and DUCK & WAFFLE restaurants 

 

ST.BOTOLPH WITHOUT BISHOPSGATE.

Churchyard

Church Hall

 

Site of the TURKISH BATH

If you carry on reading this web guide, you will hear a lot about TURKEY, today


Alongside LIVERPOOL ST. 

GREAT EASTERN RAILWAY Hotel

Site of BEDLAM

 

LIVERPOOL STREET STATION

One of the great  Victorian termini of London



KINDERTRANSPORT MEMORIAL

 

ELIZABETH LINE entrance

 

 

Little detour

FINSBURY CIRCUS

Beautifully Edwardian


ELDON ST.
ST.MARY MOORFIELDS RC Church 

 

BROADGATE

A contemporary development (1980s)  on the site of BROAD ST.STA. Connected with the railway station. CONTEMPORARY art and architecture. Shops and eateries.

 

 

If you continue along BISHOPSGATE

On the map, where EATALY is

Former FIRE BRIGADE STATION, now TESCO

 

Alongside NEW ST. or DEVONSHIRE ROW and pretty DEVONSHIRE SQUARE,

 

Firmer CUTTLER ST. EAST INDIA COMPANY WAREHOUSES. Now offices and apartments. Eateries

 

Former hotel ballroom, now JD WETHERSPOON’S PH

 

East entrance of LIVERPOOL ST. STA.

 

Site of SIR ROBERT PEEL PH

 

EATALY

 

DIRTY DICK PH

 

MIDDLESEX ST.

On Sundays, remember: PETTICOAT LANE MARKET

 

BISHOPSGATE INSTITUTE

 

OLD SPITALFIELDS MARKET

 

 


After making your way Northwards through BROADGATE  you will emerge in SUN ST., then APPOLD STREET

 

Access to EXCHANGE SQUARE


The BROAD FAMILY. Artwork by XAVIER CORBERÓ

 

EXCHANGE SQUARE

Garden

The BROADGATE VENUS. Artwork by FERNANDO BOTERO

 

Mr.APPOLD?

The street you are walking was named after the dyer and engineer, born in SHOREDITCH, JOHN GEORGE APPOLD. He improved the process of dying fur, and that of laying out transatlantic cables.

 

It looks as if steel and glass of the City, which has been  flowing ever onwards, has given way to a different form of architecture…

Warehouses 

PRIMROSE ST

 

Now you are entering the defunct COUNTY OF MIDDLESEX. Now LBHACKNEY. Alongside the chapters of this guide you will get to know what the district offers to us…

 


WORSHIP ST

PHILIP WEBB’ WORKSHOPS and HOUSES (1862-63)

Luckily S.A. ved and listed thanks to the architect’s fame. Look at the pointed window arches, to the steep roofs… Pure ARTS & CRAFTS!.

The shopwindows project outwards, and more windows let light into the basement workspace. There is no great ornamentation: on doors, on windows.

THE BUILDER criticised the inside finishing, for his degree of rudeness. But praised the sound materials.

 

 

How come a great architect like PW accepted this commission of a terrace of workshops, shops and housing for artisans?

 

A DRINKING FOUNTAIN, was the final dash of Victorian philanthropist

 

NORTON FOLGATE, the disappeared Theatreland village.                             Actors, playwrights, spies…

A short stretch of the A10

If you make a little detour towards the main road, alongside PRIMROSE ST.,  you I’ll not find anything interesting. You will be in a stretch of the A10 named NORTON FOLGATE.

.
In fact that was the name of he area, a hamlet, originally a LIBERTY, that is, a separate jurisdiction, originated land owned by the Canons of St.Paul’s before 1066, the part of the monastic ST.MARY’S SPITAL, who occupied this land before its DISSOLUTION. Then became CROWN property.

NF it used to be part of the COUNTY OF MIDDLESEX, and of the TOWER DIVISION. The parishes around -ST. BOTOLPH BISHOPSGATE, ST.LEONARD’S, CHRISTCHURCH- were part of the division as well. From 1855, was part of the WHITECHAPEL district (Borough of Whitechapel). From 1900, part of the METROPOLITAN BOROUGH of STEPNEY. Now, NF is divided between City and TH.

 

A farmstead, to the  North of the City… NORTUNE.  Was the FOLIOT family the owner of the manor?. Or was Richard FOLIOT Canon of St.PAUL’s?. Or Bishop Gilbert FOLION?.

Do you want a completely different etymological explanation?: as the district was crossed by ERMINE STREET, a highway, the word FOLDWEG derived in FOLGATE.

Of course, the LIBERTY  was managed, like the other villages, as a VESTRY,  by the ANCIENTS. They had a HEADBOROUGH, an OVERSEER OF THE POOR, a CONSTABLE and 3 BEADLES, and a SCAVENGER.

The LIBERTY was abolished in 1900 but continued to be a civil parish. But even this is argued by activists that campaigned to save the GERWY POWER STATION (LIGHT BAR), and according to whom that abolition  was invalid.

PRIMROSE ST and WORSHIP ST. were part part of the broader manor. 

The main attractions now… well you are going to find in VISIT LONDON’S EAST END: DENIS SEVERS HOUSE and the OLD SPITALFIELDS MARKET.

 

In the 18th c. in WHITE LION STREET (FOLGATE ST.) and HOG LANE (WORSHIP ST.) there were breweries. In CURTAIN RD. there were the GAS WORKS where FREDERICK WINSOR applied a novel discovery in chemistry.

On the main road, the CITY OF LONDON THEATRE  (SAMUEL BEAZLEY) stood between 1837 and 1868.

 

CHRISTOPHER MARLOWE (1594-93)


Born in CANTERBURY -the same year as WILL. SHAK.- his life was short but intensive. Son of a violent  father, he was himself a violent man, a rake, a brawler, a duellist. His life ended violently.


Mysterious and charismatic, his life was wrapped in rumours of “diabolical atheism”, or at least of unconventional religious belief. An heretic and magician.

Was he a member of the SCHOOL OF NIGHT, called as well the SHOOL OF ATHEISM? (in fact, did that group really existed?). Mystery.

Was he a supposed RC, thing which for some equalled to atheism?. Mystery.

Was all this a sham to further his possible (and royally sanctioned) spy work?. Mystery


If his politics, religion and lifestyle 
were awkward for the times,  his  dramatic creativity runs in parallel: a blasphemous FAUSTUS, an homosexual KING EDWARD,  Barabas, the MACHIAVELLI in the JEW OF MALTA.

 

At 14 he enrolled at the KING’S SCHOOL. He was at CORPUS CHRISTI, CAMBRIDGE,at 16. A very able scholar “who could make a verse”. In 1585, he was recruited to work as a government agent, for SIR FRANCIS WALSINGHAM’s intelligence network.

His uni college was ordered by the PRIVY COUNCIL to award CM his MA degree, in the midst of rumours, those years, that he intended to attend the ENGLISH CATHOLIC COLLEGE in RHEIMS.

In fact, he has lengthy absences from uni (violating attendance regulations), which were justified for being engaged in unspecified “affairs” “on matters touching the benefit of the country”  (NATIONAL ARCHIVES, 1587).  
And his purchases for personal provisions show a lavish lifestyle, spending much more that he could have afforded on his known SCHOLARSHIP income (surviving uni BUTTERY accounts -that is, the students food and drink was stored, beside the communal kitchen and the dining rooms)

 

Meanwhile his theatrical career had taken off:  TUMBURLAINE, THE JEW OF MALTA, THE MASSACRE OF PARIS, EDWARD II (hero, leader with homoerotic tendencies), DOCTOR .FAUSTUS.

 

He was living in the area. His lodgings, in the precincts of ST.MARY’S SPITAL,  were raided after his TAMBURLAINE was accused of ANTI-IMMIGRANT libel. THOMAS KYDD, his roommate, accused him of blasphemy, when he was arrested  (and tortured).

A arrest warrant for CM was issued, and documents about his 19 dangerous belief were published: something along the lines “Christ is a bastard and his mother dishonest”, “those who do not  love tobacco and boys are fools”….

For sure, he must have been a tobacco user, a commodity borough by (his friend?) WALTER RALEIGH. Had he same sex interests?. Mystery. +wiki

In THE MASSACRE OF PARIS CM reflects on the  1572 ST.BARTHOLOMEW’S DAY MASSACRE of HUGHENOTS. CHARLES IX was the Protestant King of NAVARRE…

The theme was sized by agitators in London to advocate the murder of refugees from the LOW COUNTRIES (SPANISH NETHERLANDS). The play was deemed dangerous. In it appears an “English Agent”, CM himself?. Mystery.

 

Here, in HOG LANE, in 1589, Cambridge friend and nearby resident THOMAS WATSON and CM were accosted by WILLIAM BRADLEY, claiming an unpaid debt. WATSON came out in defence of MARLOWE, and the episode ended with BRADLEY’s death and the jailing of the two friends,  by the CONSTABLE, spending sometime in NEWGATE, but being discharged with the excuse of self-defence.

That same year a warrant issued for his arrest confirms that he resided in NORTON FOLGATE.


But around that time, while on bail for the killing, was MARLOWE the “MORLEY” who tutored ARABELLA STUART, the niece of MARY WUEEN OF SCOTS, and cousin of future king JAMES I (VI of SCOTLAND). Was he acting as a spy?. Mystery.

 

In 1592 CM was summoned to appear at the MIDDLESEX SESSIONS for assaulting 2 con stables in HOLLYWELL LANE.

 

 

1592. While in the English garrison town of FLUSHING -VLISSINGEN- in the NETHERLANDS, an informer for the PRIVY COUNCIL, anti-Catholic RICHARD BAINES, accusing him of counterfeiting money an activity common among seditious Catholics.

Scorning the Bible, Christ and Mary and accusing St.John the Evangelist of sodomy were some of the items attributed to CM by BAINES. And he even implied that he was a RC, and/or even believing in hobgoblins and bugbears). 

CM was arrested and countered those accusations with the same ones against BAINES, according to the Governor of the  Garrison. Were they infiltrating the group of RECUSANT WILLIAM STANLEY?. Mystery.
However, LOTD BURGHLEY dealt with the affair: no charge nor imprisonment was made.

 

THOMAS KYDD and RICHARD BAINES were connected to THOMAS HARRIOT and WALTER RALEIGH circle. 

In those final years of his short life CM had a few more violent encounters with the law, until his life ended after being s tabled in DEPTFORD, in puzzling circumstances, apparently in an argument.

 

 

 

Did CM write SHK plays?

Did CM travelled to ITALY?.  NOW, a surprising question?: Was SHAK in Italy?. Think MERCH/ EN, RO&JUL, TEMP, OTHE,  TWO GENT/VER, WIN TALE, TAIMING/SHREW, MUCH ADO. FLORIOS, BASSANOS, Italian travellers, traders, merchants are common appearances in his plays…

The reason of those questions is the supposed mystery about the authorship of Shakespeare works. Was, in fact, CM who wrote those plays?. In fact, there many doubts, and many theories… The authorship question is a very exciting  one when it comes to studying SHK!

www.bl. Sh it journeys 

 

 


SIR WALTER RALEIGH  & the SCHOOL OF NIGHT 


Atheism in the the 16th c. equated to treason, and to anarchy and to something troublesome.

The EARL OF NORTHUMBERLAND, HENRY PERCY, spent some time in the TOWER suspicious of having plotted  against the regime (the GUNPOWDER PLOT. He had the MARTIN TOWER redecorated though!.
But he was called, as well, THE WIZZARD EARL, forming a group of “3 MAGI”, with WALTER WARNER  and ROBERT HUES. This spiritism was seen with suspicion.

A different “research group” was formed, sponsored by PERCY, and, in this case, WALTER RALEIGH, a courtesan and a seaman, and adventurer. They were dedicated to the study of religion and CM, GEORGE CHAPMAN, MATTHEW ROYDON, THOMAS HARRIOT… were participants.

They were referred , in 1592,as THE SCHOOL OF ATHEISM, but modern academics call it THE SCHOOL OF NIGHT.

Historically, England was living a transitional period: from paying attention to alchemy and MAGICAL theories towards practicing real SCIENCE.

A Jesuit priest, ROBERT PERSONS, mentioned the SA (1592} and saw WR at its centre. Definitely, an intellectual coterie. And clandestine.

And ROBERT BAINES, in an unsworn deposition stated that he had heard from another person, that CM read atheist lectures to WR and others.

SHK’s LOVE’S LABOUR LOST: “Black is the badge of Hell, The hue of dungeons and the School of Night”. It is accepted than instead of school the word might be suit or scowl, as the context of these lines, the reference has to do rather with a dark haired lady, nothing to do with cabals.

 

THOMAS HARRIOT (1560-1621) was a scientist who might have been in Cambridge when CM was there. He made terrific advances in mathematics, and as well in astronomy, cartography navigation and anthropology.

He had corresponded with KEPLER about optics, and possibly discovered SNELL’s law of refraction before Snell.
He is reputedly the first who looked at an astronomical body through a TELESCOPE, and from that experience he drew the moon. He only wrote one book, in 1588, the first in English about visiting America. He had travelled to the NEW WORLD with WR, as a scientist.

And he had an interest in anythings  like the ALIEN, the EXOTIC and the OCCULT. We can see him as a member of the SCHOOL… He was given a pension by PERCY, and had living quarters at SYON HOUSE, a place and an area that I would not insist enough that you give a bit of your time, when around London. And he was temporarily imprisoned after the GUNPOWDER PLOT.

 

GEORGE CHAPMAN was a SHK’s rival, as a poet and dramatist.  He might have written the SONNETS.

MATTHEW ROYDON. was a poet.

Now, relax and…


Enjoy yourself in
the area!. 

Both sides of SHOREDITCH HIGH STREET. On the East side, BOUNDARY STREET, REDCHURCH STREET… you will remember from VISIT LONDON’S EAST END.

The whole district is a festival of entertainment: design shops,  art galleries , eateries and drinking places, permanent or pop-up, street art, young people around. It does not matter if you are 40 or older, walking around the place is going to rejuvenate you!.

Do not miss “la” RUE DU PISS, officially BOUNDARY PASSAGE, on the other side. Hopefully it is not so smelly as the name suggest, as lads have become more considerate when it comes to relieving themselves after a few (to many) drinks (and are now using pubs or restaurants toilets).

Getting closer to the great man…

Alongside CURTAIN ROAD

PRINCIPAL TOWER

 

PRINCIPAL PLACE

AMAZON HQ


On the A10
LIGHT is an appropriate name if the building that occupies used to be a power station!.

 

To the West TENTER FIELDS and FINSBURY FIELDS. A windmill.

By the way, if you fancy a detour… A mile from here you are going to find the site of THE FORTUNE playhouse. 

 

 

THE HORSE AND GROOM PH

Possibly, in the 16th c. a VICTUALLING HOUSE, catering for theatre patrons 

 

 

THE STAGE. Site of the CURTAIN THEATRE

For many years, of unknown whereabouts … until discovered by the MOLA around 2012. Then, plans for a 37 storeys residential tower were adjoined by the provision of public spaces to admire the archeological remains (under glass platforms), a performance space (sunken amphitheatre), an heritage or visitor centre,  and some eateries. The name of the development goes in accordance…

412 luxurious apartments and penthouses, designed by NICOLA FONTANELLA. A private SKYBAR and terrace.

The HEWETT and The BARD are office buildings.

 

www.stageshoreditch

 

 

HOLLYWELL ROW (West) - HOLLYWELL LANE (East)

CA. The  BURBAGES lived in the street.

 

NSPCC

GREAT EASTERN ROAD

A Victorian road

 

THE OLD BLUE LAST PH

THE CURTAIN  PLAYHOUSE  and THE THEATRE PLAYHOUSE

Elizabethan theatres in the London area: Cities of London and Westminster, Southwark, Shoreditch and CLERKENWELL

New Inn Yard (THEATRE)

The STAGE  (CURTAIN)

To the East of the CURTAIN, ACTORS LODGING HOUSES appear in the map, alongside HOLLYWELL LANE.  Was WILL.SHK. living here?.

As well, alongside the LANE, the site where GABRIEL SPENCER murdered JAMES FEAKE

 

When you visit the place reserve a thought for JAMES FEAKE, who, in 1596, was killed by GABRIEL SPENCER, at a barber’s nearby, FEAKE, son of a GOLDSMITH was stabbed and mortally wounded with a sword (steal sheathed) which penetrated his eye, dying after 3 days of languishing.

 

They discovered here some stone floors and walls of up to 1’5 m. of height, of a  rectangular, purpose built theatre.
Fragment of the STAGE and the courtyard were identified.
The second was the PIT, where cheap theatregoers -PENNY STINKARDS- stood. The wealthy watched from timber galleries, where more comfortable seating  and cushions were provided (for 3 PENCE). For  2 PENCE those from the middling  classes would obtain a not so comfortable standing space in the galleries.
The super wealthy would have payed 6d, to have an exclusive box.
Fragments of CERAMIC BOXES were, as well, found. They served to collect those entry fees and were kept in the BOX OFFICE, where money was counted. All this we know thanks to a SWISS TRAVELLER.

 

A ceramic BIRD WHISTLE was found. It must have been used as a PROP, to create sound effects. Drinking vessels and clay pipes,  a small STATUE OF BACCHUS,  beads (maybe for decorating stage costumes). Part of the drainage system, a fire place, a tunnel that the actors would have used a accessed by doors either side of the stage… have been unearthed and, now , they are part of the exhibition. 

THE CURTAIN dates from 1577, when it became un one of the first permanent playhouses, or theatres as they were called. A man called HENRY LANMAN built it, and at one stage it was purchased by JAMES BURBAGE, who headed the players’ troupe that one day (maybe 10 years later)  WS would join, as an actor, and even later on, as a playwright , would acquire shares of. 

It seems that WS started his career in the Parish of HACKNEY. And you can say that you are where MODERN THEATRE began.

 

The first mention, 1584, is in a petition from the City to the parish authorities to shut down the playhouses. City authorities considered those places tumultuous and undesirable.

It was in 1594 when the LORD CHAMBERLAIN’S MEN (BURBAGE and co.) acquired it as supplementary house to their main space: “THE THEATRE”. In 1596 it became their premier venue, when they had to abandon the THEATRE, because the lease had expired.

HV, R&J… were performed here, as well ass CM’s and TH.KYDD’s plays. In 1598, SHK performed here in BJONSON’s EVERYMAN IN HIS HUMOUR.

In 1598 JOHN STOW mentions it in his SURVEY.

In 1603 the QUEEN ANNE’S MEN (former WORCESTER’S MEN) performed here.

A share owned by THOMAS POPE, member of the troupe, was left to his heirs, according to his last will and testament (1603). The same did   JOHN UNDERWOOD, member of the, by now, the KING’S MEN

In 1599, a “new” BURBAGE playhouse was ready to open in BANKSIDE: the GLOBE. Both playhouses at full steam, from then.

But, after 1627, there is no record of the CURTAIN. A few years afterwards had become tenements.

 

Curtain Road…Curtain Theatre…. Theatre curtain?

The name of the street (and that of the playhouse) refer to a CURTAIN WALL, be it a city wall between 2 bastions or a WALLED precinct, for exemple pasture. In our case, rests of  a brick wall have been found alongside the course of  CURTAIN ROAD. They were the walls of the ST.JOHN’S HOLYWELL NUNNERY.

Equally, a ditch or open sewer ran following the line of the road.

HOLYWELL PRIORY

Or the PRIORY OF ST.JOHN THE BAPTIST, or HALIWELL…

Historians are not sure abou its establishment by the BISHOP OF LONDON, and about its  appartenance to the BENEDICTINE ORDER. An AGUSTINIAN community of nuns was established by ROBERT FITZGENERAN (or GELRAN), in the 12th c. He was the holder of the PREBEND OF HOLYWELL.

in 1239 An 1244 it received 2 gifts from King HENRY III: 300, in the first, 12 MARKS in the second to rebuild the mill, burnt down due to carelessness on the part of the king’s baker. In 1318 EDWARD II granted 6 oaks from EPPING FOREST (visit the place, by the way!).

The convent was refunded by the great benefactor SIR THOMAS LOWELL, CHANCELLOR OF THE EXCHEQUER, who was buried in the new chapel built thanks to his generous. 
It was a  small monastic establishment,  counting with in between 7 and 13 nuns, and 4 and 11 novices. Lay employees and lay brothers lived here as well.

 

PRIORESSES like  MONTAGUE, PRUDDLE, NEWDIGATE… came from very wealthy or aristocratic families. With the 1539, the last prioress, SYBIL NEWDIGATE, received a generous pension, not so much the rest of the community.  By the way, her bother, a monk in CHARTERHOUSE, was executed in TYBURN, for not accepting HENRY VIII’s supremacy.


THOMAS CROMWELL was in charge of disposing of the old buildings. THOMAS POINTZ applied for the purchase,   It nothing happened until 1544 when HARRY WEBB, GENTLEMAN USHER TO QUEEN CATHERINE PARR, bought the building complex: orchard, gardens, stores, barn, cattle pen, slaughter house,
 horse pond, THE well, church, cloister, refectory, dormitory, prioress lodgings… see the map.

After WEBB, GEORGE PECKHAM and CHRISTIAN BLUMSTED became owners in  succession. The last one mortgaged the property to CHRISTIAN ALLEN and son GILES. GILES sold out parts of it.

At one stage the remains of the priory were called KING’S JOHN PALACE.

 

All along, the chapel was demolished. Other buildings converted. Open spaces built over.

 

it was here that ACTOR-MANAGER JAMES BURBAGE and partner brother in law JOHN BRAYNE (owner of the RED LION INN cum PLAYHOUSE, in WHITECHAPEL) took a lease on a plot.  BRAYNE advanced some money. There was no written contract. From the start,  problems and quarrels arose.

 

Finally the first purpose built PLAYHOUSE in ELIZABETHAN ENGLAND was built, opening in 1576. Plays were put on while still dig built, in order to finance its construction. Creditor JOHN HIND arranged troupes to perform.

A polygonal structure, inspired or adapted from INN YARDS. 3 galleries. An open yard, and an open stage thrust on it. Timber, sand, lime, lead, iron, brick, tile were used .

And it was called, in evocation of the THATRUM and AMPHITHEATRE of  ROMAN times,  THE THEATRE

It became wildly popular with theatregoers, and became the principal drama stage in the London area. The SHK’s plays known to us were premiered here. KYDD and MARLOWE had plays staged here, as well. Above all, this was the famous home of the LORD CHAMBERLAIN’S MEN

 

Let’s go step by step.

When THE THEATRE opened JAMES BURBAGE was part of RICHARD DUDLEY’s EARL OF LEICESTER’s MEN.  His son RICHARD was member of the LORD ADMIRAL’S MEN, who took residence here in 1580. Due to a disagreement, part of troupe, headed by PHILIP HENSLOWE, moved to THE ROSE PLAYHOUSE, in SOUTHWARK.

In 1594 the CHAM. MEN, with leading actor RICHARD BURBAGE and brother CUTHBERT BURBAGE and WILL.SHK. take residency here. Definitely, WS was already employed here, as an actor and playwright. He was already in London by 1592. Maybe. Almost nothing is sure in his life.

Those years the troupe was performing for QUEEN ELIZABETH I in GREENWICH and RICHMOND, amongst other palaces, and in the INNS OF COURT. RICHARD was the star of RICHARD III. 

But in 1597 disagreements  arose with the owner, GILLES ALLEN. The sons BURBAGE (father had died) were not happy about an extension of the lease on the condition that the theatrical use had to be exclusive (was THE THEATRE a cockfighting pit, as well?). A period of harassment and lawsuits follows. The playhouse remains empty, unused (satirised by EDWARD GAPIN).  
Partner BRAYNE’s widow sued the Burbages for physical assault against her and ROBERT MYLES, business partner. Tough business that of an impresario!.

 

Then, the story goes, the BURBAGES took drastic action: the brothers, with carpenter PETER STREET, and with WILLIAM SMITH lending some financial help, took on 12 workmen, dismantled the venue, moved the structure piecemeal to STREET’s yard, in BRIDEWELL,  near the river, and ferried the material to BANKSIDE. That happened in December 1598. A new lawsuit from ALLEN followed but failed. The following year THE GLOBE would open to the public

 

Still alongside  CURTAIN ROAD


Site of THE THEATRE

A couple of plaques mark the site. 
Archaelogists from MOLA announced in 2008 that the NE corner of THE THEATRE might be their star finding below NEW INN BROADWAY.

 

NEW INN YARD

SHAKESPEARE, in statue, seems to contemplate lovely piece of mural art, inspired in his R&J.

 

AMNESTY INTERNATIONAL HQ

Origins of theatre design

FRANCES YATES, came up, in 1969, with the following theory:

How come a working class bloke, like JAMES BURBAGE, came to know how to built a “theatre” following ancient Roman (1st c.) designs, when the translations VETRUVIUS (DE ARCHITECTURA) into English was not available until the 18th c.?. For sure he did not know Classic Latin!. STREET was a rogue carpenter, BURBAGE a rough and ready actor-entrepreneur, with a gangsterial behaviour…

Of course, up to here everybody was convinced that THE THEATRE was developed from English temporary, seasonal forms of stage, or from courtyard playhouse inns. instead YATES pointed out that the “round” shape design conforms closely to the principles of Roman Vitruvius.

Circular inside, but 6-8 sides seen from the exterior, made the acoustic ideal, a word spoken, or a music played, from the stage could reach every seat, as all seats were equidistant from stage. The wood vibrates and resonates, rising and expanding the sound waves produced by voices.

And THE GLOBE in BANKSIDE had a round interior from DR.JOHNSON, who noted a comment from Mrs. THRALE, as her husband bought the land on which THE GLOBE stood to build his brewery.

Those ROMAN and ELIZABETHAN stages had a minimum of furniture and props. Voice and language conjured a scene.

 

And YATES knew something else: the  VITRUVIUS book was in the 1583 inventary of the library of JOHN DEE, a scholar-magus, in MORTLAKE.

BURBAGE and STREET must have known nothing of the mechanics of sound waves and how to contain and magnify them.

 

LOONEY’s book 

 

Here enters another figure, the 17th EATLS OF OXFORD, EDWARD DE VERE. He was recently back in London, from Italy, and  purchased a residence in HACKNEY, KING’S PLACE. And he was a patron of DEE.

Precisely during that period, the DUKE OF RUTLAND had purchased the site where THE THEATRE would be built.

DE VERE knew about theatre: he was holding a lease of CHILDREN’S PLAYHOUSE,  BLACKFRIARS.

He had been raised by SIR THOMAS SMITH, great Latin scholar, who had, in his library, Vitruvius, in other languages, and drawings about the proportions needed in a building in order to amplify the sound. He lived in HILL HALL, THEYDON MOUNT, EPPING. SMITH and DEE knew each other from Cambridge.

All was set in motion: OXFORD would have observed or heard of the temporary outdoor structures built by PALLADIO in VICENZA (he was there in 75}, forerunners of the TEATRO OLIMPICO, in 1580  the first European indoors permanent stage. In Italy, interest for theatre was at fever pitch: la COMMEDIA DELL’ARTE , street improvisation, the coteries of humanists and artists -la CAMERATA…

Later on INIGO JONES developed the PALLADIAN WINDOW, adapting it to the PROSCENIUM.

 

OXFORD, though, is not here to be seen. He DID NOT want to be seen!. He backed the artisans following classical models with ideas and money. Secretly.

Swiss Calvinist Reformation fostered the ide that science and art were tools of the devil. DEE’s laboratory was smashed. Thence, science and art were kept behind closing doors by an inner group of connoscenti, which explains that mystery about who were patrons.

Elizabethan Renaissance was peculiar, socially and intellectually..

Perhaps that explains CHARLES NICHOLL bluster about poets being ripe for spy work (remember MARLOWE?).

I remit to the discussion about SHK authorship as it exposed in the WIKIPEDIA article.

 

As you like it… more about ELISABETHAN theatre

Another BURBAGE venue: The BLACKFRIARS PLAYHOUSE

The original stage: INNS YARDS

THE CITY CORPORATION and the performing arts

 

Normally, the playhouses that we know existed in that period were situated in the, then, outskirts of London, from CLERKENWELL to WHITECHAPEL, and especially in SHOREDITCH, to the North,  and SOUTHWARK and NEWINGTON BUTTS, South of the THAMES. Some of those places were LIBERTIES, where local authorities -the VESTRIES- did not have jurisdiction… places without law!.

Performances facilitated rowdiness, so the outskirts became rowdy. Taverns and brothels were easy company of stage. Brawls were common.

And so many people in one area propagated more easily all types of plagues.

Precisely. The the Lord Mayor of London and the Corporation did not want that and, and one stage, banned completely plays from its territory, as in 1572. That pushed impresarios to establish the first purpose built playhouses in those LIBERTIES

Instead, the City, by 1583, had licensed four INNS: THE CROSSE KEYS (in GRACECHURCH ST., in its site, now, a PH of the same name), THE BELL (BISHOPSGATE), THE BELLE SAUVAGE (LUDGATE HILL) and THE BULL.

THE QUEEN’S MEN were among the troupes performing in those places

A complete ban happened in 1594. By the, “officially “ there were only two licensed playhouses: THE THEATRE and THE ROSE.

There were other venues, though, like BLACKFRIARS, which  were used by boy-actors, in operation until 1590. BURBAGE bought with it, an adjoining set of rooms, turning it into a spacious INDOOR playhouse, a winter one, and which became a model. However, the posh  Blackfriars residents complained about it, and, in 1599, reverted to boy-actors performances. Eventually, those troupes of boys offended the and were ordered to disband. From 1609 BLACKFRIARS saw WINTER performances of the KING’S MEN.

 

 

STREET ART.
Alongside RIVINGTON STREET

Now, you are at the heart of SHOREDITCH, and this is a mine of street art, where you are going to enjoy many gems. In a couple of minutes radius, 20 odd pieces of international street art!.

 

From OLD STREET (West):

THIERRY NOIR, at FRANCO’s café. TN is a legend. in the 80s he painted over the BERLIN WALL virtually every day.

ZADOK and CRANIO (Brazilian artist ) COMEDY THEATRE. CRANIO again on the opposite alley.

ALO

DABID WALLIER. British living inn Berlin. Portraits.

MAU MAU. Comical

STINKFISH, Colombian

TN and BANKSY, in courtyard (former CARGO).
BROKEN,FINGAZ,CREW, Israeli artists.

BANKSY’s HIS MASTER’S VOICE.

BAMBI,from London. I’M TOO HOT.

VIBES. STEEL CAGE

Unknown artist: SPOOF BLUE PLAQUE

TN

BEN EINE

Now you are at SHOREDITCH HIGH STREET end 

 

While enjoying GRAFFITI ART alongside RIVINGTON STREET, when you are to the East of CURTAIN ROAD, both sides of RIVINGTON PLACE

AUTOGRAPH, originally RIVINGTON PLACE

A building designed by DAVID ADJAYE, as a visual arts centre. First publicly funded art gallery since the establishment of the HAYWARD, SOUTHBANK.

Commissioned by the INSTITUTE OF INTERNATIONAL VISUAL ART  and AUTOGRAPH ABP to promote diversity.

 

The rear of former SHOREDITCH TOWN HALL, now workspaces

“MORE LIGHT MORE POWER” was the motto adopted by the BOROUGH, formed in 1900.

CHARLOTTE ROAD

ROYAL DRAWING SCHOOL

An educational, charitable and independent organisation founded, in 2000, by the then PRINCE CHARLES, with artist CATHERINE GOOD AN as THE PRINCE’S DRAWING SCHOOL. Its goal is to raise the standards and profile of drawing, through teaching and practice. A unique institution, in the world. In a single year, 250+  courses, for all ages and abilities. They have a campus in TRINITY BUOY WHARF, as well.

 

Now, is WILLIAM, the PRINCE OF WALES in charge of the umbrella organisation, THE PRINCE’S TRUST, which support many charities.

The trust was founded in 76 by KING CHARLES and FREDERICK JOHN PERVIN, to help disadvantaged young people: with training, with financial aid,  with the support of monitor… in order to build in them confidence and motivation. In 1999 QEII granted it a ROYAL CHARTER.

Each year 60.000 people receive help. Altogether 825.000+ lives have been turned around, 125.000 enterprises have been created, and 395.000 people have received business support.

RIVINGTON ST.

Former electricity generating sub-station, for LCC TRAMS. Built in 1907, following designs of LCC arch. VINCENT HARRIS.
The TRAM.ACT 1870 allowed the local authorities to acquire privately owned companies, after 21 years of operation. The LCC  lough up the LONDON STREET WAYS COMPANY, then the NORTH METROPOLITAN TRAMWAYS.

Later acquired the LONDON TRAMWAY COMPANY, And by 1909 the network totalled 182km.

LCC TRAMWAYS operated from 1899 to 1933, when the LONDON PASSENGER BOARD was formed. It had by then a network of 269km.

The first electrified section, from WESTMINSTER to TOOTING went into service in 1903.

In 1906 entered in operation the GREENWICH POWER STA.

 

 

In 2012 MARK HIX established here his TRAMSHED restaurant, where DAMIEN HIRST’s COCK’N’BULL, created especially for the restaurant, was exhibited. A cockerell and cow in a tank of formaldehyde. Part of HIRST’s NATURAL HISTORY series of preserved animals. The KITCHEN LIBRARY was upstairs, HIX ART downstairs. 

The SMALLEST STREET ART ?

ONLY STREET ART, in SHOREDITCH?. What about…

ART GALLERIES

DESIGN SHOPS

BARS

PUBS

CAFÉS

RESTAURANTS

CLUBS

 

 

 

Here you can divert WESTWARDS, towards the FINSBURY districte, WESLEY’S CHAPEL, WHITECROSS ST. MARKET, site of the FORTUNE PLAYHOUSE, the BARBICAN and the CITY

On the map, WHITECROSS ST.

CHAPEL PL.

Site of the NEW TABERNACLE CONGREGATIONAL CHAPEL 

Now offices, as it closed in 1950. Founded in 1832, when the “OLD” one was the METHODIST TABERNACLE, at  MOORFIELDS, dating from 1732.

There is a sprig beneath.

A TABERNACLE was originally a moving church. All  CONGREGATIONAL churches are independent. They originated in PURITAN communities In the USA.

 

 

You will be heading North, and  alongside OLD ST.

OLD STREET is not Victorian thoroughfare, but much older. Old Street was recorded as Ealdestrate in about 1200, and le Oldestrete in 1373. As befits its name there are some suggestions that the road is of ancient origin. It lies on the route of an old Roman or possibly pre-Roman track connecting Silchester and Colchester, skirting round the walls of Londinium, today the areas known as the City of London
Sit down and relax with a coffee while you enjoy the rest of the WIKIPEDIA article, about OLD ST.  I have just quoted

Old Borough, new Borough

SHIREDITCH TOWN HALL

Again, beneath the crest, the motto: MORE LIGHT, MORE POWER. Traditionally, a progressive VESTRY, later a METROPOLITAN BOROUGH, as shown by the statue of PROGRESS.

Built in 1866, following plans of arch.CAESAR AUGUSTUS LONG (on the site of FULLER’S HOSPITAL) as a VESTRY HALL for the parish of SHOREDITCH. It became thus the centre of civic life.

In 1888 the inquest for the killing of MARY KELLY took place here.

On 1902 WILLIAM HUNT designed the expansion of the original building, for the new METROPOLITAN BOROUGH OF SHOREDITCH: ASSEMBLY HALL, offices, tower, the caretaker’s cottage. Due to the 1904 fire a new Assembly Hall was built in 07. In the 1930s performances of SHK’s plays were performed here to raise funds for housing. 
In 1938 the COMMITTEE ROOMS, red brick annexe, was built.

During WW2 help (evacuations, support, air raid warnings…) was organised here, the “base” associated with  the submarine HMS TRASHER

In 1965 merger of the former Metr.Bor. of HACKNEY, STOKE NEWINGTON and SHOREDITCH gave way to the new LONDON BOROUGH OF HACKNEY.

As the HQ of the new authority were transferred to HACKNEY, the ASSEMBLY HALL hosted boxing evenings, until the sport was banned here, due to the death of Trinidadian boxer ULRIC REGIS. Followed years of disrepair until the first revival in the 90s, with the WHIRL-Y-GIG trance nights.

A trust took charge in 1997, the hall was restored and converted into an art venue, with a variety of historical spaces:

ASSEMBLY HALL: High ceiling, marble walls, FRANK MATCHAM style balcony.

COUNCIL CHAMBER: the original Victorian Vestry Hall, with a  moulded ceiling, columns and stained glass. Linked with the

MAYORS PARLOUR: stained glass windows.

THE DITCH: subterranean, interconnected rooms, untouched. with a secret entrance off OLD ST. Used for installations, product launches.

OLD SERVERY: used for theatrical rehearsals, or as a kitchen space for large events.


Welcome to SHOREDITCH!. An introduction to its history

Remember the rowdy outskirts of London, which hosted the first ELIZABETHAN theatres, plus the brothels and the taverns?. Well,  the theatres disappeared  very soon (the stages moved to BANKSIDE).

The population, rather modest and working class, or directly pauper and deprived, increased. Factories, workshops, and warehouses were established and built. But factories, workshops, and warehousing went, and new type of industry —creative— settled in the area, and with a new type of dwellers, the rather young professionals of those industries. Gentrification. Hipsters. Art galleries, design shops, trendy coffee shops and restaurants. Some old pubs have reborn. Music venues. Hotels. A bit rowdy, Fridays and Saturdays in the evening… 

 

The legend goes that a mistress of KING EDWARD IV,  JANE SHORE, died or was buried in a ditch… the ditch became SHORE’S DITCH. There is a painting of JS, being retrieved from the ditch, that used to be in the former HAGGERSTON LIBRARY. In a HIGH ST. shop a design on glazed tiles shows mistress and king…

 

If we understand that the the ditch in reality functioned as a sewer, as the watercourse that rises around CURTAIN ROAD and that flows into London as the WALBROOK, that explains the old form “SOERSDITCH”.

 

There was a Lord of the Manor called SIR JOHN DE SOERDICH.

 

 

 

This  area of GREATER LONDON used to be part of the COUNTY OF MIDDLESEX, then part of the COUNTY OF LONDON.  Definitely the outskirts of the old walled City are now INNER CITY. But fields and springs abounded.

Remember, you are by ERMINE STREET, or OLD NORTH ROAD, a route that originally, in Roman times,  took travellers, soldiers and trade from LONDINIUM, through the BISHOP’S GATE, to LINDUM COLONIA and ERBORACUM, where Roman legions were based. A trunk road of around 320 km., still now, a core trunk, part of the A10.

And OLD STREET, as well, a Roman paved road, linkIng COLCHESTER (first Roman main capital of BRITANNIA) with SILCHESTER, skirting Londinium.

The hamlets of SHOREDITCH and HOXTON were beside the road. The medieval royal hunting grounds became KINGSLAND. 

At the historical crossroads (HIGH ST., KINGSLAND ROAD, OLD ST., HACKNEY ROAD) the parish church, ST.LEONARD’s, is still here. The old monasteries  (the SPITAL and the NUNNERY) have disappeared, as you have already seen.

The area remained rural until the 18 c. Market gardens and dairy farming were the main activities. Almshouses for the elderly (GEFFRYE’s) and schools for boys were set up in the midst of a healthy environment. The area became a bit fashionable as a retreat for the wealthy families of London merchants and professionals fleeing the increasing crowded and unhealthy London.

However, mind you, the areas closer to London, with the advent of popular entertainment, thanks to its  position outside the City jurisdiction, “base tenements and houses of unlawful and disorderly resort” inhabited by “dissolute, loose, insolent people”, “beggars and people without trade”, and inns with their stables, taverns, ale houses, ordinaries, dicing houses, bowling alleys, brothels…

 

The silk weavers started coming, as refugees, from France, the furniture industry began to be established,  becoming the main local activity  (visit the MUSEUM OF THE HOME), many industries of all type, in Victorian times,  and with  them, deprivation and crime. Narrow streets of terraced working class housing sprang up, all the land was built over, becoming one of the most densely populated districts of what we can already call London. A slum.

Slum a railways go together. The railway companies were very insensitive when it comes to design their viaducts and bridges. The area became blighted 

This was a period, though, in which popular entertainment was not missing:  the NATIONAL STANDARD THEATRE had HENRY IRVING. It became the NEW OLIMPIA PICTUREDROME in 1926. The SHIREDITCH EMPIRE, which became the LONDON MUSIC HALL  was designed by MATCHAM, and CHAPLIN performed here. The ROYAL CAMBRIDGE MUSIC HALL, when rebuilt in 1897, had a huge stage. 

 

After the devastation of WW2, intensive and extensive redevelopment took place. Council estates occupied the sites of slummy terraces and some industrial plots. Grey concrete all over. Some office buildings, grey as well.

But something started to happen in the 80s: the  East End districts became popular with creative industries, professionals of that type began to consider living here, as well:  gentrification was here SHOREDITCHIFICATION, hipsterfication… Very Shoreditch!.  Simple rebuilding gave wa6 to regeneration, amn the improvement of the design of buildings, be it residential, work or leisure. Hotels make their appearance. Off go the striptease clubs. In the trendy bars.

Back on the route. To HOXTON SQUARE

After enjoying a drink or two in the multiple coffee shops, bars, PHs, and all type of eateries of the district…

Before entering HOXTON SQ. proper see the plaque

 

TERENCE HIGGINS TRUST

 

Site of SHOWROOMS

 

HOXTON SQUARE was, in times of the DB,  part of marshy fields, one time the landlord must have been an Anglo-Saxon man called HOCQ or HOCH.  The termination “ton” denotes, as usual, a farm a fortified enclosure. In medieval times, HOGESDON and HOCHESTON were forms used commonly).

 

In 1415, by order of the LM London the City of London wall was broken and a gate was built, “for the easy of its citizens “, who now could walk to ISLINGTON and HOXTON after going through MOORGATE .

In TUDOR and STUART times the first PLEASURE GARDENS make their appearance in the areas around London, i.e. ISLINGTON and HOXTON. Here Mr PIMLICO set up business, and became so  famous and important that he gave his name to a London 19th c. district. Do not be confused, you are in London’s East End. Mind you, the famous  toy theatre-maker Mr POLLOCK started his career in Hoxton, as well!.

 

The playhouses were not far away but around here  courtiers and aristocrats built their manors.

 

In 1598 it the area was called HOGSDEN FIELDS. Enough distanced from London to grant anonymity and space for duellists to exercise: playwright BEN JONSON, whose play EVERY MAN IN HIS HUMOURS was performed in the CURTAIN (with SHK in it)  a few days before, came out victorious over actor GABRIEL SPENCER. The latter one had a longer sword though, and was the one who had started the controversy according to BJ’s account, related many years later.

He was subsequently arrested and sentenced for murder but, as he claimed the BENEFIT OF CLERGY, he avoided execution. He was BRANDED on his left thumb and had to forfeit all his possessions (no wonder hi fell in financially dire straits, and when he had to paid for his burial he had to do with a standing up TOMB!).

The RIGHT OF CLERGY originated in the COMPROMISE OF AVRANCHES, by which KING HENRY II reconciled the Crown with the Church, after the controversy that ended in ARCHBISHOP’S BECKET murder: secular courts, with few exceptions, like high treason, had to jurisdiction over the clergy.

Was BJ a member of the clergy?. Well, “clerginess” was a ample condition, according to the compromise: tonsured hair, or wearing an ecclesiastical dress, or being able to read from the Latin Bible, or…well, from 1351,  just been able to read.

 

BEN JONSON and GABRIEL SPENCER

BEN JONSON had been educated at WESTMINSTER SCHOOL (nowadays, one of the famous PUBLIC SCHOOLS of England) under distinguished antiquarian WILLIAM CAMDEN. After becoming  a bricklayer(a brief stint as he was working for his uncle, but probably you can admire his art if you visit LINCOLN’S INN, one the famous institutions -INNS OF COURT- that train and associate the BARRISTERS of England and Wales), and volunteering to combat the Spanish in FLANDERS, he became a strolling player (just as SHK did ?. Maybe).

Then, a writer.  Because his satirical play THE ISLE OF DOGS was considered seditious and slandering, he was imprisoned. All this gives you an idea of how the theatrical world was 4 centuries ago.

Anyway, he was a man living on the edge, a drunkard, who lived on bread and beans, unclean and ill-favoured . But he ended in WESTMINSTER ABBEY (paid by himself, standing burial, though)

And it seems that he had a good relationship with WILLIAM SHAKESPEARE, whom he admired, had affection and night regard. It seems that all this was mutual.

What to say about GABRIEL SPENCER?.  Well, he is well known for his episodes of violence. And is well documented that he was associated with FRANCIS LANGLEY (he gave work in his playhouse to the EARL OF PEMBROKE’S MEN, a troupe that GS integrated, although he worked as well for LORD CHAMBERLAIN’S.

According to the FIRST FOLIO  erosion of HENRY VI, when the messenger is supposed to appear on stage, he is announced as “enter Gabriel”.

Some think that he was responsible for the BAD-QUARTO of the 1597 ROMEO & JULIET, which must have been a memorial reconstruction.

He, as well, was imprisoned, with BJ, ROBERT SHAW and THOMAS NASHE, for performing in THE ISLE OF DOGS. He was released after 8 weeks.

In 1597 he left PEMBROKE’S MEN to join the ADMIRAL’S troupe, as a shareholder. The manager was PHILIP HENSLOW.

HOXTON

 

When the district acquired the industrial appearance that has survived up to our days, it became densely populated. Cheap labour was close to workshops. Tailors, saddlers, iron workers, piano makers, furniture makers…. Close to the City and the West End, the fashionable markets.

By 1901, there were 5.000 cabinet, furniture and piano makers in Hackney The course, nearby, of the REGENT’S CANAL, completed at the beginning of the 19th c., facilitated the industrial transformation, as a mean of easing the transportation of heavy goods.  

The building of the railways, with their stations and goods yards nearby, accelerated the process.

MRS.MICAWBER and OLIVER TWIST knew the area…


A pop. of 34.000 in 1801 (first English CENSUS), became 68.000 in 1831, and peaked to 129.000 in 1861. In 1961 were only 40.000.

Deindustrialisation started early, which made possible that the YOUNG BRITISH ARTISTS, still not famous, started to take over disused workshops and warehouses. Fashion, design, music, and other creative industries followed. Maybe with forms of cultural life which were not reputed mainstream in the 70s.

After the 1990s property crash, when property was rented semi-legally, started to spring up some comercial galleries, the first, FACTUAL NONSENSE, in 1992, in CHARLOTTE RD., by JOSHUA COMPSTON) which helped the emergence of such YOUNG BRITISH ARTISTS  as HIRST or EMIN.

 

In the 2000s had emerged the EAST LONDON TECH CITY that we known. Only third, after the SFR and NYK  clusters, London has become thanks to this area a large hub of technology startups. Withs its own SILICON… ROUNDABOUT. Actually, this is history. The OLD STREET ROUNDABOUT is no more, replaced by a two way system with better access for pedestrian and cyclists!. 
Now media, advertising agencies… complete the panorama. Many of them, outside the main stream. All of them trendy. Hipsters, hackers and computer geeks have replaced the artists. The YBA had to move out of the area. They año no more Young, but richer.

 

HOXTON SQUARE

One of the early garden squares laid out (1683)  anywhere in the London suburbs, inspired in BLOOMSBURY SQUARE,  and contemporary to SOHO SQ. West End, East End… they were not so different before the Industrial Revolution!. 

Thus, a gentile, residential place, middle class, even. fashionable in the 17th c, but short lived.
In the the 18th c., the area was centre of NON-CONFORMISM, and l
ater in the century became the centre of the furniture trade with most houses used as workshops.

 

 

PETER DURAND, lived in the square. He filed the first patent for the technique of tinning, that is, the preservation of food using cans.

 

The central garden, for exclusive use of the residents became an open public space in 1916.

 

 

East

Nos. 31 & 37 have original traces.

Nos. 41 & 42  are original

 

North

AGUSTINIAN CONVENT and mission Church of ST.MONICA

The first Augustinian establishment since the reign of MARY I. Two Irish monks arrived in 1864,  invited by CARDINAL WISEMAN, when the area was only served by the KINGSLAND MISSION.

The district was, back then, populated by a sizeable Irish community, part of which worked in overcrowded workshops.

Businessman C H WALKER had advanced £600 to buy No.18, as a temporary priory and makeshift chapel. 
That year the VICAR GENERAL placed the foundation stone. The church was not still completed when the following year a concert was held, and MONSIGNOR MANNING preached a sermon, during its opening. 
No.17 was purchased as temporary priory, then no.18 was demolished  and the church extended Eastwards.

In ST.MONICA’s DAY 1866 took place the opening of the complete church.  The LADY CHSPEL, though was blessed by CARDINAL MANNING in 1880 No.19 was bough and demolished and the priory occupied the site, opening in 1870.

No.17 was demolished to build the school, which op.1870. Altogether, the 3 buildings, cost £13.400. Economically build but distinctly designed by the great AW PUGIN.

No.16 was purchased to expand the school, in 1879. It would be demolished in 1907, and rebuild. This school was finally sold by the Agustinians in 1970, as it had been replaced by a post war building on the corner.

The former school was converted to a fitness studio, and then restaurant and flats.

In 2004 the former boxing club and hall to the East were sold out.

In 2007 the church was repaired and cleaned.

 

—Unusual timber arcade.

—Inside a number of high quality, historic furnishings: HIGH ALTAR and REREDOS, by MAYER of MUNICH (1875).

The polychromatic sanctuary.

+www.taking-stock.org.uk

 

West

—the site of ST.PETER’s Church,  now a contemporary apartment building

—No.10 used to be the VICARAGE (1874).

—No.1 DR.JAMES PARKINSON lived and had his practice  here. I leave you with SPITALFIELDS LIFE, to whom I  would like to thank for the amount of information it offers  us  about East London.

 

South

Site of CUBE GALLERY

The HOXTON SQUARE ACADEMY

It stood to the S of this square. It had succeeded THE ACADEMY where SAMUEL PIKE, a SANDEMANIAN, offered theological  teachings. But the wide curriculum and the fact of allowing free enquiry was its main trait.

c.1785 SAMUEL MORTON SAVAGE f. the future HSqA. in WELLCLOSE SQUARE.
The tutor was DAVID JENNINGS. 
The assistant, appointed by the COWARD TRUST (who paid the lease and the salaries of tutors, a the board and lodgings of students) was ABRAHAM REES, who would become resident tutor.

 

After a long time of search and making it ready, the ACADEMY moved here, former dwellings of DANIEL WILLIAMS.

 

Students from all over the country and belonging to different DISSIDENT traditions. From WARRINGTON, TAUNTON,EXETER, CARMARTHEN…ACADEMIES. Many, funded by the COWARD TRUST, of Congregational leanings. Many, after acquiring heterodox views , became  Unitarians.

Of courts, they would have been members of the Ch.of E..

There were, at one time 12 students. The duration of the ministerial course was of 5 years.

57 students were awarded exhibition, amongst them WILLIAM GODWIN.

Successful candidates had  to pass an examination into learning, religion and conduct,

The Trustees made monthly visits

Pneumatology, Ethics, Divinity, Mathematics, Philology, Oratory were the subjects.

Library, experimental equipment and an orrery were housed in the building, as well.

 

 

Exiting HOXTON SQ. Westwards 

 

Site of HOXTON MARKET

Set up in 1687 but short lived, as the middle class district around.

 

Site of the CHRISTIAN MISSION 

F.1881, by the BURTT brothers moved here 1886. Enlarged 1905. Refronted 1915.

The BURTT brothers were found, as boys, themselves living in the streets and were brought up by a charity and educated at a RAGGED SCHOOL. Here dinners and boots were offered, as were excursions to EPPING FOREST, a Sunday School (still in operation in the 60s), Christmas parties… 

CHARLES BOOTH mentions it as soup kitchen and refuge for poor.

The welfare state finally came to give final support to those acts of philanthropy, and when social conscience was much more rooted.

From power station to university

 
Now you turn your attention to the red brick building sporting a motto in Latin. Let us exercise the Latin of your school days!.

This building dates from 1897. It housed in the destructor hall, 3 engines and storage binsA 80 ft chimney stack. And, next door Library (and small. Museum), Public Baths and Washhouses. And municipal offices. 
The first UK system of  local waste and refuse disposal, used to generate power, which was later used for street lighting and for the neighbouring public buildings. An example of state  (in fact, local authority, as this was built by the SHOREDITCH VESTRY) intervention, allowed by the 1882 ELECTRICAL LIGHT ACT, which allowed to purchase private undertakings after 21 years of operation ( extended to 42 years in 1888, as the private companies were no able to recoup their investments, in only 21) to create monopolies on the public interest.

Recycling, what a (not so new) marvel!.

LIGHT AND POWER FROM DUST!. That is, electricity was recognised as the fuel of the future. And here, an interventionist administration took the matter in its own hands. Not everywhere in London was like this.

Anyway, this was one of the largest power consuming districts (factories and workshops, warehouses, 300 PHs, shops open all night…) and the, rather leftist VESTRY resented that private profit was made at the expense of local needs.

And there was and additional problem to solve: it had to deal with 20.000 tons of municipal refuse each year!. An innovative solution beckoned.  As the BOARD OF TRADE has granted to SOREDITCH the license to supply energy, the Vestry commissioned Eng. EDWARD MANVILLE to conduct a feasibility study of a combined DUST DESTRUCTOR PLUS ELECTRICITY GENERATING STATION. He concluded that the undertaking had scope for development, and the voters endorsed the proposal.

 

 

In the open ceremony, a part from municipal pride, was present the physicist LORD KELVIN, who praised the  Vestry for being technologically progressive, and Mr.STUART, LABOUR MP praised it for serving the humble population.

NILE STREET tenements were the first ro have electricity supply, in 1899. By then, who opened the new  flats was the EARL OF ROSEBERRY, Chairman of the new,y formed LCC.  The Vestry as no more but, very appropriately , the new BOROUGH, part of the new LCC, embraced it: MORE POWER, MORE LIGHT. In fact, the Borough continued to be a progressive authority, where LABOUR took hold firmly.

And demand expanded, supply expanded. A second generating station was built in WHISTON ROAD, HAGGERSTON, this one fired by coal, supplied thanks to the canal, as there was not enough rubbish to satisfy demand.

By 1924, 43 miles of the Borough were cabled, in 1926 a RENTAL WIRING SCHEME allowed households to have electricity with no upfront cost, paying 1’5 d per unit. The had installed lamps and shades, fixed by the ELECTRICAL DEPARTMENT staff, and, as well slot meters and maintenance where included.

SHOWROOMS were opened in HOXTON STREET, in the corner of OLD ST.

 

The NATIONAL GRID was created in 1927. We were entering the ers of large scale generation. The era was heralded by the building of BATTERSEA POWER STATION, in 1933. 
But, during WW2, small generation here provided a back up, when large stations were affected by the bombs. And  gain in 1947, due to the coal crises.

 

 

 

 

NATIONAL CENTRE FOR CIRCUS TRAINING

You could be getting a university degree here, now. This is a leading centre that supports the professional development of CIRCUS performers and companies, and runs adults and children classes.

JONATHAN GRAHAM started it, in NORTH ROAD (1989). Helping performers and companyies, decisions spaces for practicing and performing, putting on shows… in 1994 the institution moved here, and the following year was authorised to deliver a NATIONAL DIPLOMA. 

In 1998 a tailor made training program was devised for aerial artists performing and the MIL at the MILLENNIUM DOME,  now THE O2, NORTH GREENWICH.

In 1999 was created a 2 year BA course, in association with the CENTRAL SCHOOL OF SPEECH & DRAMA, WEST HAMPSTEAD, and validated by the UNIVERSITY OF KENT. In 2014 a new BA, CIRCOMEDIA, by the UNIVERSITY OF BATH SPA was created.

The GENERATING COMPANY was f. here.

Deaf and disabled artists, including soldiers,  had a training program set up, so they would perform in the 2012 PPGG OPENING CEREMONY.

Star members of the CIRQUE DU SOLEIL and the RSHKCo have been trained here, SADIE FROST, STEPHEN DALDRY, DANIEL KRAMER, LUCY MECKLENBURG

At the corner with. PITFIELD STREET

Former THE HOP POLE PH

The attic storey has been extended, with a full length mansard. Lead faced dormers, in the original dormer o serve the ornamental terracotta surround.

Dark green faience, and fascia of cream tiles.

Terracotta architraves.

 

Before you turn right into PITFIELD STREET, see, opposite, the entrance of 

CHARLES SQUARE

A fashionable 18th residential square, like HOXTON SQUARE. Now, completely redeveloped, only one 18th c. building stands on its West side

 

HOUSE

 

A little to the West of the square 

THE PRINCE ARTHUR PH.

 

Not far away, on OLD STREET, BOUNCE (ping pong)

 

 

 

ISLINGTON or THE CITY

This little detour can be the start of 2 larger diversions that would take you to the CITY or to ISLINGTON

ISLINGTON to the West 

CITY to the South

The route continues along PITFIELD ST

Former PUBLIC LIBRARY, opened in 1896

Funded, as so many in the EAST END, by PASSMORE EDWARDS (1823-1911), who, coming from a humble Cornish village, became a journalist, then editor, MP for SALISBURY, and a champion of the working classes. 

 

Site of the PUBLIC BATHS (1899)

After the damages suffered during WW2 they had to be demolished. A sympathetically designed building occupies the site.

THE COURTYARD THEATRE

CONSERVATOIRE MUSIC AND DANCE

 

 

Nos. 18-20. Site of the VARIETY THEATRE, associated with the WHITE HORSE PH.

Arch. PHIPPS,, 1869

The site was rebuilt in 1994

 

No. 41. Former, and handsome,  FURNITURE WAREHOUSE

White round keystone on round windows, glazed tiles, square brick column’s decorations

 

Site of ASKE’S 

ROBERT ASKE was a silk merchant and member of the HABERDASHER COMPANY, and, in 1689, legate land and £20.000 to be invested to provide ALMSHOUSES for the poor and a SCHOOL for 20 poor sons of FREEMEN.

ASKE’S HOSPITAL was built here, 1690-93, designed by ROBERT HOOKE, associate of SIR CHRISTOPHER WREN.

1827. The HABERDASHER’ COMPANY rebuilt the venue in a GREEK/REGENCY style, by an arch, -DR.ROPER- who had provided the valuation of the properties needed for the laying down of REGENT STREET.

The building was altered in 1873

In 1898 the institution was transferred to the LCC, who established here the newly founded SHOREDITCH TECHCICAL INSTITUTE, now COLLEGE, transferred to COOPERS HILL, in 1951.

Later on, the LONDON COLLEGE OF FURNITURE occupied the building, until transferred to the CITY & ISLINGTON COLLEGE.

Finally, converted into 38 apartments, 1 studio and 1 house.

 

BUTTESLAND ST

Built 1810-35, on the HABERDASHERS’ ESTATE, a terrace of 7 properties. With round headed doorways, with fanlight. The roof and the chimneys are concealed behind the parapet. Some sash windows are original.

67-73

62-65

60-61, Victorian

 

CHART ST.

17-23 Georgian

 

 

Who are the HABERDASHERS?

The HABERDASHERS LIVERY COMPANY was in. Barge of regulating the silk and velvet trade.

Now, thanks to a careful stewardship of corporate bequests and funds, the LC supports significant educational and charitable institutions linked with the FASHION INDUSTRY.

The HABERDASHERS BOYS SCHOOL is now in ELSTREE.

 

Site of the GAUMONT CINEMA, now HOXTON CURZON 

B.1914, with a cap. of 866 spectators. Closed during the BLITZ but open during the rest of the War. It became part of the RANK chain, but closed in 56. Meatpackers, importers  and wholesalers used the building, then artists, until plans were made  by the SHIREDITCH TRUST to restore it.

In fact, it has been completely rebuilt,  up to the GF, in reinforced concrete, and with CROSS LAMINATED TIMBER  modular frame, upwards.  Cinema, restaurant and 18 apartments.

The heritage façade has a modern extension of lightweight zinc-clad pavilion shaped.

Arch. WAUGH THISLETON

 

 

THE GEORGE & VULTURE PH.

The tallest pub building in London?.

 

HABDRDASHER ST

Part of RA’s bequest.

Nos.57-145. C.1900 artisans’  flats. Roof railings


HABERDARSHERS PLACE

Rebuilt1952

 

PIMLICO HOSTELRY & PLEASURE GARDENS

Pimlico?. Sounds familiar… VICTORIA STATION is in PIMLICO!. BUCKINGHAM PALACE is in PIMLICO… But there are miles away!.

A foreign looking name?.

In the last TUDOR and the STUART times, BEN PIMLICO, originally from Italy (?) owned an ale house which became famous, and particularly sought after was his nut brown ale. The pleasure gardens in which it developed became at the centre of the area, where pleasure gardens sprang up, and PIMLICO became the popular name of this area denoting those places of entertainment. It seems that another venue, started or not by Mr.Pimlico, was called PIMLICO, and the name stuck!.

The poem A MAD WORLD OF HOGSDON contains the lines: “Doctors, Proctors, Clerks, Attorneys to Pimlico make sweetly sweethearts journeys”

 

 

ST.JOHN THE BAPTIST Church

Here, JOHN GOLDSMITH,  Maternal GGGG father of KATE MIDDLETON, or CATHERINE the PRINCESS OF WALES, married ESTHER JONES, 1850.

The only church designed by the arch.FRANCIS EDWARDS, SIR JOHN SOANE’s foremost pupil, was built  and  consecrated in 1826. HOXTON was not anymore part of the parish of ST.LEONARD.

It is one of the CHURCH COMMISSIONERS’ churches, as well called, a WATERLOO CHURCH, or a MILLION ACT CHURCH. It held a congregation of 2.000.

The original floor plan has been kept intact, the galleries are notables. The painted ceiling and other decorations are spectacular. They were designed by arch. JOSEPH ARTHUR REEVE, in the 20th c.  The organ case is Georgian, the organ itself, from 1915, was restored in 1934. The Coat of arms is that used. Y WILLIAM IV.

The churchyard was open to the public in 1882.

The first vicar was responsible for the founding of the NATIONAL SAVINGS BANK, London’s largest, and the ST.JONH’S NATIONAL SCHOOLS, following a local campaign and the advise of CHARLES BOOTH.

The school, was in  NEW NORTH ROAD, with a capacity for 800 kids. It was successively replaced by a SBL school, a b by the current Primary.

 


The route can continue Northwards or Eastwards… it is your choice!

Northwards: towards THE BEAUVOIR TOWN, and DALSTON &  STOKE NEWINGTON

 

If you move the map, you will see the course of the REGENT’S CANAL, and, pointed out, DE BEAUVOIR SQUARE


After  the site of PIMLICO PLEASURE GARDENS and ST.JOHN’s Church, alongside PITFIELD ST. and WHITMORE RD


TRUE JESUS CHURCH

SHOREDITCH PARK

BRITANNIA LEISURE CENTRE

SCHOOL

 

WHITMORE BRIDGE over the REGENTS CANAL


However, I suggest you a detour… you will have an encounter with SIR ALFRED  HITCHCOCK!. Enter the park!

 

On the map, in SOUTHGATE ROAD a branch of TESCO

 

Immediatel 3 things come to your attentional you  walk the in diagonal Nort-Westerly:

2 art works and a warehouse-looking building with a big name on it. And you recognise the name!.

As you get closer to the stone you recognise that it is a boulder. It comes from a quarry in CORNWALL and the sculptor climbers are welcomed. In fact it is boulder NO.1. NO.2 is in MABLEY GREEN, HACKNEY WICK.

The other piece of art is HITCHCOCK REEL. Mos, all becomes obvious: the building in front of you where used by the GAINSBOROUGH FILMS, as studios, and AH worked here.

I encourage you to inspect the building more closely: you will find an immense bust of AL, inside the modern courtyard. The plaque remembering you of the history is outside.

 GAINSBOROUGH FILMS, ALFRED HITCHCOCK

Why not crossing the bridge and inspecting BARING STREET and WILTON SQUARE.

And, as well, the ROSEMARY GARDENS industrial past. In case of a certain emergency THE BARING and THE ROSEMARY BRANCH PHs are here to help.

 

From here you can divert towards ISLINGTON, already very close.


Now, you will have an encounter with LENIN, STALIN, TROTSKY eg al.

I suggest you a detour… you will have an encounter with SIR ALFRED  HITCHCOCK!. Enter the park!

See the TESCO?. 100 years ago, on the corner of the main road and BALMES ROAD used to be a church. In 1907, the future BOLCHEVIQUES were holding a Congress in London, precisely here. 

Eastwards: to HOXTON STREET and the MUSEUM OF THE HOME

See the map?: PITFIELD ST.  and HOXTON ST,  where you are finding a number interesting sites run, in parallel, and are connected by FANSWAW ST.

Alongside FANSHAW ST

ACADEMY BUILDINGS

The name of these warehouses refers to the DISSENTING Hoxton Square Academy.

 

LION AND LAMB PH

 

 

At the corner of HOXTON ST, to the N

KHADIJA’S GARDEN

A bed of planting commemorates  K SAYE, tragically killed in the 2017 GRENFELL disaster.#

She worked for PEER. and played a role creating this space. The pedestal clock contains an artwork, BLACK HANDS, by CHRIS OFILI and the sculptural installation SPONTANEOUS CITY:HOXTON, By LONDON FIELDWORKS.

To the S

No.73. Site of POLLOCK’S

A London institution:  The famous toy theatre manufacturer, was established here in 1856. He and WEBB, the most important dynasties of this industry,  were based in the area. Artists like the CRUICKSHANKS brothers, R.DIGHLON, or WILLIAM BLAKE designed engraved plaques to be published as sheets of theatrical characters.

DICKENS was az isutor here. And the boy R.LOUIS STEVENSON was buying prints in the shop in EDINBURGH supplied by POLLOCK’S. He came here, on a visit, in 1884. He was delighted.

Bombed out of here, the firm was established in the WEST END, and, now, after the finally closing the shop-museum in WHITFIELD ST., FITZROVIA, you can admire his theatres in the OLD COVENT GARDEN MARKET shop.

 

On the W side the NEW CITY COLLEGE.

 

No.91. Site of THE ACADEMY (1764-85)see

Dissenting ministers forming school.

The route takes you Nortwards but there are a couple of interesting places to the S:


No 34. Only surviving building of the HOXTON HOUSE ASYLUM

F.1695, as a private lunatic asylum a type of institution common in this rural area, which became synonymous with lunacy!.
The MILES family took over 1715, looking after private patients, paupers and army men. The family doctor would care for the physical health of the private patients.

With  the acquisition of other large houses in the street and surrounding streets was enlarged 1784 and 1814,  becoming the largest in HOXTON. From 1792 many RN seamen became insane, and especially after the BATTLE OF TRAFALGAR, 80 patients were treated. The CHATHAM CHEST FUND was set up. 
However, under ownership of JONATHAN MILES conditions deteriorated and inspectors of the NAVAL HOSPITAL and from the GUARDIANS OF THE POOR called the attention to poor conditions. Floors soaked with urine, incontinent patients mixed with the rest, chaos, confusion, low staff level, harsh treatment… 

A HOUSE OF COMMONS Select Committee looked into the affairs. In 1818 the NAVAL LUNATIC ASYLUM was transferred to GOSPORT.

A second HofC.S.C. created a LUNACY COMMISSION to monitor and regulate care and treatment, and 1828 MADHOUSES ACT followed.
In 1845 the COUNTY ASYLUMS ACT transferred them to public hospitals.

In 1875 this hospital was licensed for 325 inmates. In  1885 it occupied 2 acres. 10 years later it looked after 280 private patients and some paupers.

Finally. Closed in 1902. It became a warehouse of a wardrobe and then a tools dealer, and then of an upholsterer. 

The LCC took over the building and used it for different functions: education offices, public health depart., children care offices, Special school, invalid child care assistance, youth employment bureau, base of Inner London Education Authority, young persons advice bureau… In 1911 became HOXTON HOUSE SCHOOL, under the supervision of the LCC.  

Afterwards. HACKNEY COMMUNITY COLLEGE.

 

JAKE and DINOS CHAPMAN had studios here



Site of the HOXTON OLD JEWISH BURIAL GROUND (1707-1960). Burials took place here until 1878.

Plaque in WEST HAM JEWISH CEMETERY

“UNITED SYNAGOGUE BURIAL SOCIETY

“Repaired 1929

”records in archives at 2-3 ST.JAMES’S PL., EC3

No photos were taken before the removal of rests and the destruction of the site p, authorised the  HIEF RABBI.

Now yes, walking Northwards

 

THE MACBETH OF HOXTON PH

On the pediment “HOXTON DISTILLERY” (gin!)

LIBRARY

 

GUNPOWDER PLOT PLAQUE


Site of  WILLIAM PARKER,  4th BARON MONTEAGLE’s residence

HOXTON, 17th c.: still a rural retreat were noble families had residences 

Son of a recusant family, himself a sympathiser of the RC cause (imprisoned after the ESSEX REBELLION, and had a hand at organising THOMAS WINTOUR’s mission tonSpain) during ELISABETH’s reign, his wife came from the prominent TRESHAM, a NORTHAMPTON recusant  family, and his sister was married to THOMAS BABINGTON (BABINGTON PLOT!).

Notwithanding all this record , he was part of the tribunal who tried and condemned MARY QUEEN OF SCOTS, a role which won for him the favour of the royal court. 

With the accession of JAMES I of England, be declared “to be done with all formal plots “, and in a letter to the King,  even committed to follow the STATE RELIGION. In fact, King James accession had raised Catholic hopes of the end of persecution. Expulsions, fines and harassment continued though, even if the atmosphere had turned more tolerant, in appearance.

In this climate ROBERT CATESBY recruited a group of men in order to blow up PARLIAMENT while in session, during traditional SOVEREIGN’S OPENING. That year of 1605 fell on the 5th of November, after been put off by the PLAGUE.

JOHN JOHNSON leased  leased a house in LONDON, gathered enough gunpowder, and then he moved it to WESTMINSTER, storing in in a cellar under the HOUSE OF LORDS

An anonymous letter was delivered  here a read aloud by a servant,  on the 26th October, while sitting at dinner, warning LORD MONTEAGLE mot to attend Parliament, on the 5th the following month. Was that letter sent by FRANCIS TRESHAM, his brother-in-law?. Or by a friendly conspirator?. Or by himself?. Those are the theories!. The letter is in  NATIONAL ARCHIVES.

MONTEAGLE rushed to WHITEHALL, where he was received by ROBERT CECIL, EARL OF SALISBURY, and by the king in person.. He would be present at the search of the proximities of Parliament, on the 4th. GUY FAWKES was found there while they gunpowder was hidden under coal. Under torture, in the TOWER OF LONDON, he confessed the names of the other 7 conspirators, and was executed in January 1606.

By the way, several other RC Lords would be absent from London those days…

The GUNPOWDER PLOT was . Disaster was averted.

 

LORD MONTEAGLE would be rewarded with £500 and £200 worth of lands. He became an investor in the VIRGINA COMPANY  and other endeavours.

However, he assisted his brother-in-law, who had harboured Catholic Priests, he continued to connive with Catholics, his son LORD MORLEY was one of the prominent ones (he sheltered seminarists), and his daughter was a nun. 
Before he died, he received the Catholic last rites.

Nos. 124 & 126. Artisans houses, c.1730.

 

No.129. QUEEN MARY HOSTEL (1929, reformed in 2005)

A hostel built  for working local girls, now houses creative industries

 

HOXTON HALL

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